[AT] Tractor battery
Mike M
meulenms at gmx.com
Sat Nov 20 10:33:38 PST 2021
I did throw an meter on the ground and the bolt it is bolted to and it
came back at 0.00 Ohms.
Mike M
On 11/20/2021 11:01 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> The battery usually sits in a tray and that tray is bolted on with 3
> or 4 bolts. That would be my go-to spot if what I just said about a
> tray and it’s mounting is true for your tractor.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 20, 2021, at 9:40 AM, Carl Szabelski <c.s.szabelski at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I guess it’s also an issue of how long your cable is. You can get
>> them in various lengths and wire sizes, so it becomes a matter of how
>> far you have to route the cable. The farther you have to go, the
>> larger the cable size. You would also have to consider strapping down
>> the cable if you have to go a ways.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> On Friday, November 19, 2021, HRP <hrpletch at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> And I don’t picture the adjusting bolt as necessarily having a
>> good connection to the block for the starter current.
>>
>> Howard
>>
>> On Nov 19, 2021, at 11:32 PM, Carl Szabelski
>> <c.s.szabelski at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I wouldn’t use any bolt that’s primary use is for adjusting. You
>>> want a bolt that once tightened down, doesn’t get touched again
>>> for any reason. If you have to use one that isn’t as easy to get
>>> to, just keep in mind that you shouldn’t ever have to touch it
>>> again. Whatever effort you have to go through will hopefully
>>> only need to be done once.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>> On Friday, November 19, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have an alternator adjustment bolt that is easy access,
>>> would that be a good choice?
>>>
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On 11/16/2021 11:34 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>>>> You can run a new cable to the engine block, just need to
>>>> find a spot where there is an unused threaded hole, or
>>>> where you can remove a bolt and use it to make the
>>>> attachment. Clean the area and hit it with a file or some
>>>> sandpaper, then run a tap in the hole to make sure
>>>> everything is clean before attaching the cable. If
>>>> necessary use a new bolt and flat washer, stainless will
>>>> help with future corrosion issues/concerns.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, November 15, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Tore out the battery today, tons of corrosion, to the
>>>> point that the positive nut for the clamp was almost
>>>> reduced by 75%, I had to pound it off. I thought I had
>>>> things cleaned up but it appears that was not the case.
>>>> I'll go battery shopping tomorrow, and hopefully I can
>>>> find something close. Meanwhile I have the battery case
>>>> coated in baking soda, to help neutralize the leaking
>>>> battery acid. Question for the list can I jump a
>>>> diesel, without the battery installed? I'm running out
>>>> of time in Michigan, and all our water is shut off
>>>> except the barn frost free.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> On 11/15/2021 3:37 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Not a problem, I get to deal with these things a lot.
>>>>> At this point even doing simple repairs are becoming
>>>>> hard if not impossible for the average DIYer due to
>>>>> the way the companies are building them. There are
>>>>> some out there now that have “sealed drivelines” where
>>>>> they have no dipsticks or easily accessible fill plugs
>>>>> to even do routine service and you need a scan tool to
>>>>> even check fluid levels!
>>>>>
>>>>> *From: *Stephen Offiler <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com>
>>>>> *Sent: *Monday, November 15, 2021 5:28 AM
>>>>> *To: *Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
>>>>> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>>>>
>>>>> Extremely useful and informative for modern vehicles,
>>>>> thanks SteveW!
>>>>>
>>>>> Steve O.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 10:39 PM Steve W.
>>>>> <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Whatever you do, do NOT use the old “unhook the
>>>>> battery to see if it stays running” test that used
>>>>> to be done. On any vehicles newer than about 1998
>>>>> that is almost a guaranteed way to destroy the
>>>>> charging system. On most cars and trucks built
>>>>> from there on up, the voltage regulator is part of
>>>>> the engines control unit. Those are not cheap to
>>>>> replace. Another no-no is to jump start a newer
>>>>> vehicle without charging the battery or leaving a
>>>>> jump pack on it, many of the newer vehicles will
>>>>> read the bad battery and crank the voltage and
>>>>> amperage way up to try to compensate for the low
>>>>> battery, that can kill the alternator, and if the
>>>>> battery is failing it can blow it up from the
>>>>> excessive charging. I can’t count how many
>>>>> vehicles I had to repair once the bug measures let
>>>>> people start using their cars again, after they
>>>>> were parked for 3-4 months.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now if you are one of the “fortunate” who has one
>>>>> of the over engineered modern rolling computers
>>>>> made from about 2017 and up, Check really close in
>>>>> service information before you replace an old
>>>>> battery, many of those need to have the battery
>>>>> initialized into the system because the ECU has
>>>>> adjusted itself as the old battery wore out, you
>>>>> need to tell it that you are installing the new
>>>>> battery and what it is in CCA and type, be it a
>>>>> flooded cell, AGM, Lithium or other as they all
>>>>> use slightly different charging routines and it’s
>>>>> easy to cook a battery if it’s set up wrong. To go
>>>>> with that, many of the parts stores offer
>>>>> installation as long as you have one that is
>>>>> reasonably easy, there are quite a few that are
>>>>> not due to the battery locations. OH and for the
>>>>> import owners, be sure which battery you actually
>>>>> need as many of the high dollar brands use 2 or
>>>>> three different batteries scattered around the
>>>>> vehicle. Mercedes for instance has one in the
>>>>> trunk, one under the hood and one tucked in behind
>>>>> the dash!
>>>>>
>>>>> For those of you who still want to DIY it, here is
>>>>> another tip. On cars that have lots of options or
>>>>> anything 2017 and up, the security systems can be
>>>>> a royal pain if you remove the battery, they can
>>>>> lock you out of everything so you end up towing it
>>>>> to a dealer to have it flashed back. The way
>>>>> around this is simple. Find the feed and ground
>>>>> lugs for the fuse box or if it has them the jumper
>>>>> terminals mounted out in the open. Now grab a
>>>>> power supply or a fully charged battery and
>>>>> connect it up to those, in the case of using a
>>>>> spare battery, connect it, start the engine and
>>>>> let it run for 20 minutes or so, that will
>>>>> equalize the charge in the add-on battery, verify
>>>>> that the charging circuit is working as well,
>>>>> simply by measuring the voltage with the engine
>>>>> off, then again with it running. With a power
>>>>> supply (NOT A COMMON CHARGER) you just dial it up
>>>>> to the voltage the service info says or at least
>>>>> 13 volts. Now you can disconnect the main battery
>>>>> without losing any settings or programming because
>>>>> the ECU never sees it disconnected. Just remember
>>>>> that the Positive terminal will still be hot when
>>>>> you do this, my SOP is to pull the ground side,
>>>>> then take a heavy rubber/plastic baggy and as soon
>>>>> as the pos. comes of it goes into the bag to keep
>>>>> it safe.
>>>>>
>>>>> *From: *Henry Miller <mailto:hank at millerfarm.com>
>>>>> *Sent: *Sunday, November 14, 2021 4:23 PM
>>>>> *To: *at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>>>>
>>>>> Be careful with modern cars, some cycle the
>>>>> alternator on and off. Weird when driving to see
>>>>> the voltmeter not hold constant. (This was a
>>>>> rental car, I almost turned around for one that
>>>>> worked before I figured it out )
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>> Henry Miller
>>>>>
>>>>> hank at millerfarm.com
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, at 16:37, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> > Quick check is just battery voltage not running
>>>>> versus running. If your
>>>>>
>>>>> > alternator is putting out something, voltage is
>>>>> higher when running. If
>>>>>
>>>>> > the alternator is bad, voltage is close to the
>>>>> same or a bit lower when
>>>>>
>>>>> > running (probably lower because the battery gave
>>>>> up some juice to crank it
>>>>>
>>>>> > over). If you are wondering if the alternator
>>>>> is somewhere in between
>>>>>
>>>>> > healthy and dead, turn on as many electrical
>>>>> loads as you can while
>>>>>
>>>>> > running. Alternator should handle those loads
>>>>> and still give the battery
>>>>>
>>>>> > terminals something over 13.5V. (Because it is
>>>>> supplying other things in
>>>>>
>>>>> > addition to battery recharge, you may not see
>>>>> the whole 14-ish volts, but
>>>>>
>>>>> > it must be greater than 12.6-ish to be pushing
>>>>> charge into the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> > Hope this helps.
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> > SO
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> > On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 3:43 PM Mike M
>>>>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> >> Thanks Steve, it there a way to test whats
>>>>> coming out the alternator?
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >> On 11/14/2021 2:15 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >> Hi Mike:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >> I've heard baking soda can neutralize the acid
>>>>> but I'd probably ask the
>>>>>
>>>>> >> Google for backup on that.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >> A good range for battery terminal voltage
>>>>> engine-running is 13.6V-14.4V.
>>>>>
>>>>> >> Some modern voltage regulators have temperature
>>>>> compensation, dropping
>>>>>
>>>>> >> voltage in high temperature conditions (when it
>>>>> is easier to charge and
>>>>>
>>>>> >> easier to overdo it) and raising voltage in the
>>>>> cold (when they're not as
>>>>>
>>>>> >> eager to accept charge). Not all alternators
>>>>> do this, but I just wanted to
>>>>>
>>>>> >> explain why there's such a fairly wide range.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >> SO
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 2:03 PM Mike M
>>>>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> Tough to say Steve, I do know that I filled
>>>>> some of the battery chambers
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> with distilled water because some seemed a
>>>>> little low, and it leaked
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> battery acid for a few days. whats the best
>>>>> way to clean that up? I know
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> it's very caustic. What should the voltage be
>>>>> across the terminals with the
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> engine running?
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> On 10/28/2021 6:08 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> The question is, what happened? Is your
>>>>> alternator not charging?
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> SO
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 9:30 PM Mike M
>>>>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Whew!! got it back for now. It started right
>>>>> up and the terminals where
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> shiny as new, ground as well. Voltage across
>>>>> the terminals was 13.3 and
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> climbing. I have the trickle charger on it
>>>>> overnight, and will give it a
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> good workout tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Regards,
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 1:22 PM, Mike M wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> When I checked the voltage between the posts
>>>>> with a digital volt meter,
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> I only got 11.5 volts, I left the charger on
>>>>> overnight, and it's now up to
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> 13 volts, so I switched to a maintainer.
>>>>> It's raining here today so I'm
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> leaving it on the charger, and yes I will
>>>>> check the grounds for sure!
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Thanks for the advice to all. I'll let you
>>>>> know how it turns out.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Regards,
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 7:54 AM, Steve Offiler wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> I wonder how many thousands of times farmer
>>>>> has typed that over the
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> years!
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> When Mike said it only clicked when jumped,
>>>>> that simply says bad
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> connection. I’m not sure why the focus on a
>>>>> bad battery just yet.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Steve O.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> On Oct 27, 2021, at 6:47 AM, Indiana Robinson
>>>>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 1:22 AM Mike M
>>>>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> Makes me wish for my old tractor and I could
>>>>> back it up onto a hill,
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> let it get rolling and pop the clutch in 2nd
>>>>> gear.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> On 10/26/2021 11:46 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> Mike,
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> Try jumping it, but leave the cables
>>>>> connected for 20-30 minutes before
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> you attempt a start. Even if you’ve had the
>>>>> charger on all night. Even with
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> a dead battery it should start and run. It
>>>>> may die when you disconnect the
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> cables, but if it doesn’t, it should run,
>>>>> but the battery probably won’t
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> take a charge.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> Carl
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021, Mike M
>>>>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> So my tractor battery went dead overnight.
>>>>> It's an Exide Select
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> Performance battery, with 925 CCA model
>>>>> 31XHE with 180 minutes of
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> reserve capacity. I tried jumping it with
>>>>> my truck but no luck it would
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> just click. I started looking online, and
>>>>> about fell out of my chair.
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> Prices started at $300 and and most are out
>>>>> of stock. Does anyone have
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> any good sources for batteries? It was
>>>>> manufactured in 2014, so I guess
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> the clock just ran out. Any ideas would be
>>>>> greatly appreciated. Is
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> there
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> anyway to service it, or rejuvenate it?
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> Thank you,
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>>> --
>>>>>
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>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> --
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>>>>> >>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Francis Robinson
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> aka "farmer"
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> Central Indiana USA
>>>>>
>>>>> >>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>>>
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>>>>>
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