[AT] Tractor battery

Tue Nov 16 17:40:20 PST 2021

Get something like this:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO849233?impressionRank=63

Then find a good solid spot to attach it to the chassis, closer to the
engine block/starter the better.

SO

On Tue, Nov 16, 2021 at 6:23 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:

> What a mess! I tried to clean the wires, but they were so corroded I just
> bought new ones. The positive terminal only had 1/4 of the nut left. I
> bought battery cleaner today and hosed it down really well, I found a local
> company that sells Interstate batteries for a reasonable price, after
> talking with the dealer. He's a great guy who not only sells but also works
> on equipment. Their is no good way to get to the ground wire, to shine up
> the connection. Question would be, what's the best way to establish a new
> path for a ground for the battery?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Mike M
>
> On 11/16/2021 9:21 AM, Indiana Robinson wrote:
>
> I wouldn't think that there would likely be any problem with just cleaning
> up the old battery and terminals well and reinstalling it to jump start the
> tractor and to protect the charging system while using it. You might even
> find that you don't really need to replace the battery right now. Sometimes
> charging systems behave a little odd.  :-)  Clean both cables at both ends.
> Don't let any of the baking soda get in the battery (cap off, vents etc.).
> Actually these days I am kind of fond of the battery cleaner that tells you
> by color if you have   gotten all of the acid off of the case. Note that if
> you get any acid on your clothes it will seem ok until they are washed and
> then they will fall apart.  :-)
>
>
> .
>
> On Tue, Nov 16, 2021 at 5:50 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Mike - I would say DO NOT fire it up without a battery!  I'm not certain
>> but I believe this is a modern-ish compact utility tractor.  If so, it is
>> quite likely to have a solid-state voltage regulator built into the
>> alternator and you'll risk burning it up.
>>
>> SO
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 15, 2021 at 11:26 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Dennis, it is all by key. I remember as a teenager, I had to run
>>> a skid steer, and to cut off the air to turn it off.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On 11/15/2021 10:29 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> What turns the fuel on and off. If it is a key there is probably a
>>> solenoid somewhere. My 97 Cummins 5.9 in my old dually has a solenoid to
>>> turn fuel on and off. If you have a mechanical lever to turn the engine on
>>> and off you are OK.
>>> I am not aware of anything you would hurt by jumping IH.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Nov 15, 2021, at 8:24 PM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
>>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Hi Dennis, thanks for the response, mine is a Tier 3 diesel engine
>>> that is not electronically  controlled  as far as I know. Can I do any
>>> damage by trying to start it without the battery installed? I will follow
>>> up with the dealer tomorrow as well. I will also insulate the +/-  leads so
>>> they don't touch anything.
>>>
>>> Thank-you,
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On 11/15/2021 7:12 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> Jumping a diesel w/o battery depends on if you have any electrons that
>>> control or turn on things like fuel solenoids, etc.  Old engines with
>>> manual fuel shut off’s and mechanical injectors should work fine. Newer
>>> ones with more electrons controlling stuff will not run w/o a battery
>>> somehow hooked up.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Nov 15, 2021, at 6:06 PM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
>>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Tore out the battery today, tons of corrosion, to the point that the
>>> positive nut for the clamp was almost reduced by 75%, I had to pound it
>>> off. I thought I had things cleaned up but it appears that was not the
>>> case. I'll go battery shopping tomorrow, and hopefully I can find something
>>> close. Meanwhile I have the battery case coated in baking soda, to help
>>> neutralize the leaking battery acid. Question for the list can I jump a
>>> diesel, without the battery installed? I'm running out of time in Michigan,
>>> and all our water is shut off except the barn frost free.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On 11/15/2021 3:37 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>>
>>> Not a problem, I get to deal with these things a lot. At this point even
>>> doing simple repairs are becoming hard if not impossible for the average
>>> DIYer due to the way the companies are building them. There are some out
>>> there now that have “sealed drivelines” where they have no dipsticks or
>>> easily accessible fill plugs to even do routine service and you need a scan
>>> tool to even check fluid levels!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From: *Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent: *Monday, November 15, 2021 5:28 AM
>>> *To: *Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
>>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Extremely useful and informative for modern vehicles, thanks SteveW!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Steve O.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 10:39 PM Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Whatever you do, do NOT use the old “unhook the battery to see if it
>>> stays running” test that used to be done. On any vehicles newer than about
>>> 1998 that is almost a guaranteed way to destroy the charging system. On
>>> most cars and trucks built from there on up, the voltage regulator is part
>>> of the engines control unit. Those are not cheap to replace. Another no-no
>>> is to jump start a newer vehicle without charging the battery or leaving a
>>> jump pack on it, many of the newer vehicles will read the bad battery and
>>> crank the voltage and amperage way up to try to compensate for the low
>>> battery, that can kill the alternator, and if the battery is failing it can
>>> blow it up from the excessive charging. I can’t count how many vehicles I
>>> had to repair once the bug measures let people start using their cars
>>> again, after they were parked for 3-4 months.
>>>
>>> Now if you are one of the “fortunate” who has one of the over engineered
>>> modern rolling computers made from about 2017 and up, Check really close in
>>> service information before you replace an old battery, many of those need
>>> to have the battery initialized into the system because the ECU has
>>> adjusted itself as the old battery wore out, you need to tell it that you
>>> are installing the new battery and what it is in CCA and type, be it a
>>> flooded cell, AGM, Lithium or other as they all use slightly different
>>> charging routines and it’s easy to cook a battery if it’s set up wrong. To
>>> go with that, many of the parts stores offer installation as long as you
>>> have one that is reasonably easy, there are quite a few that are not due to
>>> the battery locations. OH and for the import owners, be sure which battery
>>> you actually need as many of the high dollar brands use 2 or three
>>> different batteries scattered around the vehicle. Mercedes for instance has
>>> one in the trunk, one under the hood and one tucked in behind the dash!
>>>
>>> For those of you who still want to DIY it, here is another tip. On cars
>>> that have lots of options or anything 2017 and up, the security systems can
>>> be a royal pain if you remove the battery, they can lock you out of
>>> everything so you end up towing it to a dealer to have it flashed back. The
>>> way around this is simple. Find the feed and ground lugs for the fuse box
>>> or if it has them the jumper terminals mounted out in the open. Now grab a
>>> power supply or a fully charged battery and connect it up to those, in the
>>> case of using a spare battery, connect it, start the engine and let it run
>>> for 20 minutes or so, that will equalize the charge in the add-on battery,
>>> verify that the charging circuit is working as well, simply by measuring
>>> the voltage with the engine off, then again with it running. With a power
>>> supply (NOT A COMMON CHARGER) you just dial it up to the voltage the
>>> service info says or at least 13 volts. Now you can disconnect the main
>>> battery without losing any settings or programming because the ECU never
>>> sees it disconnected. Just remember that the Positive terminal will still
>>> be hot when you do this, my SOP is to pull the ground side, then take a
>>> heavy rubber/plastic baggy and as soon as the pos. comes of it goes into
>>> the bag to keep it safe.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From: *Henry Miller <hank at millerfarm.com>
>>> *Sent: *Sunday, November 14, 2021 4:23 PM
>>> *To: *at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Be careful with modern cars, some cycle the alternator on and off.
>>> Weird when driving to see the voltmeter not hold constant. (This was a
>>> rental car, I almost turned around for one that worked before I figured it
>>> out )
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>   Henry Miller
>>>
>>>   hank at millerfarm.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, at 16:37, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>
>>> > Quick check is just battery voltage not running versus running.  If
>>> your
>>>
>>> > alternator is putting out something, voltage is higher when running.
>>> If
>>>
>>> > the alternator is bad, voltage is close to the same or a bit lower when
>>>
>>> > running (probably lower because the battery gave up some juice to
>>> crank it
>>>
>>> > over).  If you are wondering if the alternator is somewhere in between
>>>
>>> > healthy and dead, turn on as many electrical loads as you can while
>>>
>>> > running.  Alternator should handle those loads and still give the
>>> battery
>>>
>>> > terminals something over 13.5V.  (Because it is supplying other things
>>> in
>>>
>>> > addition to battery recharge, you may not see the whole 14-ish volts,
>>> but
>>>
>>> > it must be greater than 12.6-ish to be pushing charge into the battery.
>>>
>>> > Hope this helps.
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> > SO
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> > On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 3:43 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> >> Thanks Steve, it there a way to test whats coming out the alternator?
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >> Mike M
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >> On 11/14/2021 2:15 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >> Hi Mike:
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >> I've heard baking soda can neutralize the acid but I'd probably ask
>>> the
>>>
>>> >> Google for backup on that.
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >> A good range for battery terminal voltage engine-running is
>>> 13.6V-14.4V.
>>>
>>> >> Some modern voltage regulators have temperature compensation, dropping
>>>
>>> >> voltage in high temperature conditions (when it is easier to charge
>>> and
>>>
>>> >> easier to overdo it) and raising voltage in the cold (when they're
>>> not as
>>>
>>> >> eager to accept charge).  Not all alternators do this, but I just
>>> wanted to
>>>
>>> >> explain why there's such a fairly wide range.
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >> SO
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 2:03 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> >>> Tough to say Steve, I do know that I filled some of the battery
>>> chambers
>>>
>>> >>> with distilled water because some seemed a little low, and it leaked
>>>
>>> >>> battery acid for a few days. whats the best way to clean that up? I
>>> know
>>>
>>> >>> it's very caustic. What should the voltage be across the terminals
>>> with the
>>>
>>> >>> engine running?
>>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>> >>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> >>> Mike M
>>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>> >>> On 10/28/2021 6:08 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>> >>> The question is, what happened?  Is your alternator not charging?
>>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>> >>> SO
>>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>> >>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 9:30 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>> >>>> Whew!! got it back for now. It started right up and the terminals
>>> where
>>>
>>> >>>> shiny as new, ground as well. Voltage across the terminals was 13.3
>>> and
>>>
>>> >>>> climbing. I have the trickle charger on it overnight, and will give
>>> it a
>>>
>>> >>>> good workout tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> >>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 1:22 PM, Mike M wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> When I checked the voltage between the posts with a digital volt
>>> meter,
>>>
>>> >>>> I only got 11.5 volts, I left the charger on overnight, and it's
>>> now up to
>>>
>>> >>>> 13 volts, so I switched to a maintainer.  It's raining here today
>>> so I'm
>>>
>>> >>>> leaving it on the charger, and yes I will check the grounds for
>>> sure!
>>>
>>> >>>> Thanks for the advice to all. I'll let you know how it turns out.
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> >>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 7:54 AM, Steve Offiler wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> I wonder how many thousands of times farmer has typed that over the
>>>
>>> >>>> years!
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> When Mike said it only clicked when jumped, that simply says bad
>>>
>>> >>>> connection.  I’m not sure why the focus on a bad battery just yet.
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> Steve O.
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> On Oct 27, 2021, at 6:47 AM, Indiana Robinson <
>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>>>
>>> >>>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> 
>>>
>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>
>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>
>>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> .
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 1:22 AM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>> Makes me wish for my old tractor and I could back it up onto a
>>> hill,
>>>
>>> >>>>> let it get rolling and pop the clutch in 2nd gear.
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>> On 10/26/2021 11:46 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>> Try jumping it, but leave the cables connected for 20-30 minutes
>>> before
>>>
>>> >>>>> you attempt a start. Even if you’ve had the charger on all night.
>>> Even with
>>>
>>> >>>>> a dead battery it should start and run. It may die when you
>>> disconnect the
>>>
>>> >>>>> cables, but if it doesn’t, it should run, but the battery probably
>>> won’t
>>>
>>> >>>>> take a charge.
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>> Carl
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>>> So my tractor battery went dead overnight. It's an Exide Select
>>>
>>> >>>>>> Performance battery, with 925 CCA model 31XHE with 180 minutes of
>>>
>>> >>>>>> reserve capacity. I tried jumping it with my truck but no luck it
>>> would
>>>
>>> >>>>>> just click. I started looking online, and about fell out of my
>>> chair.
>>>
>>> >>>>>> Prices started at $300 and and most are out of stock. Does anyone
>>> have
>>>
>>> >>>>>> any good sources for batteries? It was manufactured in 2014, so I
>>> guess
>>>
>>> >>>>>> the clock just ran out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Is
>>>
>>> >>>>>> there
>>>
>>> >>>>>> anyway to service it, or rejuvenate it?
>>>
>>> >>>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>>> Thank you,
>>>
>>> >>>>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> >>>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>>> --
>>>
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>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> --
>>>
>>> >>>> --
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>> Francis Robinson
>>>
>>> >>>> aka "farmer"
>>>
>>> >>>> Central Indiana USA
>>>
>>> >>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
>>> >>>>
>>>
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>
>
> --
> --
>
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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