[AT] Tractor battery
Mike M
meulenms at gmx.com
Mon Nov 15 16:06:11 PST 2021
Tore out the battery today, tons of corrosion, to the point that the
positive nut for the clamp was almost reduced by 75%, I had to pound it
off. I thought I had things cleaned up but it appears that was not the
case. I'll go battery shopping tomorrow, and hopefully I can find
something close. Meanwhile I have the battery case coated in baking
soda, to help neutralize the leaking battery acid. Question for the list
can I jump a diesel, without the battery installed? I'm running out of
time in Michigan, and all our water is shut off except the barn frost free.
Thanks,
Mike M
On 11/15/2021 3:37 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>
> Not a problem, I get to deal with these things a lot. At this point
> even doing simple repairs are becoming hard if not impossible for the
> average DIYer due to the way the companies are building them. There
> are some out there now that have “sealed drivelines” where they have
> no dipsticks or easily accessible fill plugs to even do routine
> service and you need a scan tool to even check fluid levels!
>
> *From: *Stephen Offiler <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, November 15, 2021 5:28 AM
> *To: *Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>
> Extremely useful and informative for modern vehicles, thanks SteveW!
>
> Steve O.
>
> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 10:39 PM Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com>
> wrote:
>
> Whatever you do, do NOT use the old “unhook the battery to see if
> it stays running” test that used to be done. On any vehicles newer
> than about 1998 that is almost a guaranteed way to destroy the
> charging system. On most cars and trucks built from there on up,
> the voltage regulator is part of the engines control unit. Those
> are not cheap to replace. Another no-no is to jump start a newer
> vehicle without charging the battery or leaving a jump pack on it,
> many of the newer vehicles will read the bad battery and crank the
> voltage and amperage way up to try to compensate for the low
> battery, that can kill the alternator, and if the battery is
> failing it can blow it up from the excessive charging. I can’t
> count how many vehicles I had to repair once the bug measures let
> people start using their cars again, after they were parked for
> 3-4 months.
>
> Now if you are one of the “fortunate” who has one of the over
> engineered modern rolling computers made from about 2017 and up,
> Check really close in service information before you replace an
> old battery, many of those need to have the battery initialized
> into the system because the ECU has adjusted itself as the old
> battery wore out, you need to tell it that you are installing the
> new battery and what it is in CCA and type, be it a flooded cell,
> AGM, Lithium or other as they all use slightly different charging
> routines and it’s easy to cook a battery if it’s set up wrong. To
> go with that, many of the parts stores offer installation as long
> as you have one that is reasonably easy, there are quite a few
> that are not due to the battery locations. OH and for the import
> owners, be sure which battery you actually need as many of the
> high dollar brands use 2 or three different batteries scattered
> around the vehicle. Mercedes for instance has one in the trunk,
> one under the hood and one tucked in behind the dash!
>
> For those of you who still want to DIY it, here is another tip. On
> cars that have lots of options or anything 2017 and up, the
> security systems can be a royal pain if you remove the battery,
> they can lock you out of everything so you end up towing it to a
> dealer to have it flashed back. The way around this is simple.
> Find the feed and ground lugs for the fuse box or if it has them
> the jumper terminals mounted out in the open. Now grab a power
> supply or a fully charged battery and connect it up to those, in
> the case of using a spare battery, connect it, start the engine
> and let it run for 20 minutes or so, that will equalize the charge
> in the add-on battery, verify that the charging circuit is working
> as well, simply by measuring the voltage with the engine off, then
> again with it running. With a power supply (NOT A COMMON CHARGER)
> you just dial it up to the voltage the service info says or at
> least 13 volts. Now you can disconnect the main battery without
> losing any settings or programming because the ECU never sees it
> disconnected. Just remember that the Positive terminal will still
> be hot when you do this, my SOP is to pull the ground side, then
> take a heavy rubber/plastic baggy and as soon as the pos. comes of
> it goes into the bag to keep it safe.
>
> *From: *Henry Miller <mailto:hank at millerfarm.com>
> *Sent: *Sunday, November 14, 2021 4:23 PM
> *To: *at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>
> Be careful with modern cars, some cycle the alternator on and
> off. Weird when driving to see the voltmeter not hold constant.
> (This was a rental car, I almost turned around for one that worked
> before I figured it out )
>
> --
>
> Henry Miller
>
> hank at millerfarm.com
>
> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, at 16:37, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>
> > Quick check is just battery voltage not running versus running.
> If your
>
> > alternator is putting out something, voltage is higher when
> running. If
>
> > the alternator is bad, voltage is close to the same or a bit
> lower when
>
> > running (probably lower because the battery gave up some juice
> to crank it
>
> > over). If you are wondering if the alternator is somewhere in
> between
>
> > healthy and dead, turn on as many electrical loads as you can while
>
> > running. Alternator should handle those loads and still give
> the battery
>
> > terminals something over 13.5V. (Because it is supplying other
> things in
>
> > addition to battery recharge, you may not see the whole 14-ish
> volts, but
>
> > it must be greater than 12.6-ish to be pushing charge into the
> battery.
>
> > Hope this helps.
>
> >
>
> > SO
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 3:43 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> Thanks Steve, it there a way to test whats coming out the
> alternator?
>
> >>
>
> >> Mike M
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> On 11/14/2021 2:15 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >> Hi Mike:
>
> >>
>
> >> I've heard baking soda can neutralize the acid but I'd probably
> ask the
>
> >> Google for backup on that.
>
> >>
>
> >> A good range for battery terminal voltage engine-running is
> 13.6V-14.4V.
>
> >> Some modern voltage regulators have temperature compensation,
> dropping
>
> >> voltage in high temperature conditions (when it is easier to
> charge and
>
> >> easier to overdo it) and raising voltage in the cold (when
> they're not as
>
> >> eager to accept charge). Not all alternators do this, but I
> just wanted to
>
> >> explain why there's such a fairly wide range.
>
> >>
>
> >> SO
>
> >>
>
> >> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 2:03 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>> Tough to say Steve, I do know that I filled some of the
> battery chambers
>
> >>> with distilled water because some seemed a little low, and it
> leaked
>
> >>> battery acid for a few days. whats the best way to clean that
> up? I know
>
> >>> it's very caustic. What should the voltage be across the
> terminals with the
>
> >>> engine running?
>
> >>>
>
> >>> Thanks,
>
> >>> Mike M
>
> >>>
>
> >>> On 10/28/2021 6:08 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>
> >>>
>
> >>> The question is, what happened? Is your alternator not charging?
>
> >>>
>
> >>> SO
>
> >>>
>
> >>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 9:30 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>
> >>>
>
> >>>> Whew!! got it back for now. It started right up and the
> terminals where
>
> >>>> shiny as new, ground as well. Voltage across the terminals
> was 13.3 and
>
> >>>> climbing. I have the trickle charger on it overnight, and
> will give it a
>
> >>>> good workout tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> Regards,
>
> >>>> Mike M
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> On 10/27/2021 1:22 PM, Mike M wrote:
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> When I checked the voltage between the posts with a digital
> volt meter,
>
> >>>> I only got 11.5 volts, I left the charger on overnight, and
> it's now up to
>
> >>>> 13 volts, so I switched to a maintainer. It's raining here
> today so I'm
>
> >>>> leaving it on the charger, and yes I will check the grounds
> for sure!
>
> >>>> Thanks for the advice to all. I'll let you know how it turns out.
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> Regards,
>
> >>>> Mike M
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> On 10/27/2021 7:54 AM, Steve Offiler wrote:
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> I wonder how many thousands of times farmer has typed that
> over the
>
> >>>> years!
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> When Mike said it only clicked when jumped, that simply says bad
>
> >>>> connection. I’m not sure why the focus on a bad battery just
> yet.
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> Steve O.
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> On Oct 27, 2021, at 6:47 AM, Indiana Robinson
> <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>
> >>>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> Check the grounds.
>
> >>>> Check the grounds.
>
> >>>> Check the grounds.
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> .
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 1:22 AM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>>> Makes me wish for my old tractor and I could back it up onto
> a hill,
>
> >>>>> let it get rolling and pop the clutch in 2nd gear.
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>> Mike M
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>> On 10/26/2021 11:46 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>> Mike,
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>> Try jumping it, but leave the cables connected for 20-30
> minutes before
>
> >>>>> you attempt a start. Even if you’ve had the charger on all
> night. Even with
>
> >>>>> a dead battery it should start and run. It may die when you
> disconnect the
>
> >>>>> cables, but if it doesn’t, it should run, but the battery
> probably won’t
>
> >>>>> take a charge.
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>> Carl
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>>>> So my tractor battery went dead overnight. It's an Exide Select
>
> >>>>>> Performance battery, with 925 CCA model 31XHE with 180
> minutes of
>
> >>>>>> reserve capacity. I tried jumping it with my truck but no
> luck it would
>
> >>>>>> just click. I started looking online, and about fell out of
> my chair.
>
> >>>>>> Prices started at $300 and and most are out of stock. Does
> anyone have
>
> >>>>>> any good sources for batteries? It was manufactured in
> 2014, so I guess
>
> >>>>>> the clock just ran out. Any ideas would be greatly
> appreciated. Is
>
> >>>>>> there
>
> >>>>>> anyway to service it, or rejuvenate it?
>
> >>>>>>
>
> >>>>>> Thank you,
>
> >>>>>> Mike M
>
> >>>>>>
>
> >>>>>>
>
> >>>>>>
>
> >>>>>>
>
> >>>>>> --
>
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> >>>> --
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> >>>> --
>
> >>>>
>
> >>>> Francis Robinson
>
> >>>> aka "farmer"
>
> >>>> Central Indiana USA
>
> >>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>
> >>>>
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