[AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Sun May 2 06:20:19 PDT 2021

Thanks, Dean, your suggestion about the cape chisel sounds good.  I’ll have a go at removing the broken stud in a week or two, after the replacement parts arrive.   And you betcha about being grateful for the five.

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Dean VP
Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 3:17 PM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Dean,

I think you need to be very grateful that you have 5 out w/o a problem. In fact you need to go to a casino and bet heavily.  Getting out the twisted off stud can  be a challenge. First of all forget using “Easy Outs” in this situation. They are better known as “Never Outs”.  It appears to me that the stud broke off even with the surface of the head so I won’t make any comments about welding on a nut or using a pipe wrench.   Your only choice is to drill a hole into the center of the remaining stud and drill a progressively larger hole until you reach the threads of the head. Then you can try a couple things. One is you can melt out the remaining part of the stud using an acetylene torch. Remember Cast Iron melts at a higher temperature that the stud material.  Or one trick that I have used successfully multiple times and that is to use a “cape” chisel and slide it between the threads of the stud and the head in two to three places.  Use as small of a cape chisel as you can get by with to minimize thread damage. What is a cape chisel?   Think of a nail punch that has been ground off right at the tip at a very sharp angle. Be careful to not ruin the temper. Then drive that edge into the slot where the two threads meet. It will peel and separate the two threads apart. Repeat this step a couple more times around the stud and the remaining threads should pop out. If they don’t, the torch will aid in loosening them up.  Try not to use the cape chisel any more than necessary to avoid ruining very much of the threads.  Ruining SOME of the threads is not a problem. Clean up the threads in the hole with a repair tap or bottom tap.  Using as taper tap first before the bottom tap sometimes helps.

This whole job requires a lot of patience and make sure there are no children or women around. 😊

Dean VP

Snohomish, WA 98290

"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."

..Winston Churchill...

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > On Behalf Of Dean Vinson
Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 8:15 AM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> >
Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Phil, finally time for a followup.    Per your advice below I’ve been hitting the manifold nuts with PB Blaster every couple of weeks, and finally went out to put a wrench on them today.   First four came right off, easy and clean, and I was thinking “Sweet, I’m golden.”

#5 backed the stud out rather than loosen the nut, and then #6 left me the little souvenir shown in the attached photo.   Looks like this particular Saturday isn’t going to be the one where I finish this job.  ;)

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > On Behalf Of Phil Auten
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 11:17 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Well, Dean, while the tractor is sitting, let those nuts and bolts soak with PB Blaster, Kroil or your favorite penetrant. They will be a lot happier to come loose without breaking then. Have fun with it and remember, as George Willer once told me, "Time is your friend".

Phil in TX

On 1/31/2021 5:42 PM, Dean Vinson wrote:

Hmmm, good point about “straightforward” being a problematic concept, gents.   I’ll likely let it sit for a couple more weeks while I ponder it.  :)

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

From: AT  <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Mike M
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 2:32 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
Subject: Re: [AT] [External] Re: One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Dean, can't that spot be brazed to seal it? Nothing is as straight forward when removing 70 year old nuts. I'd be inclined to spray them with PB Blaster or something like it for a week or so before trying it. Wouldn't hurt to get them cherry red a few times as well. 

Mike M  

On 1/31/2021 12:36 PM, Gunnells, Brad R wrote:

<quote>Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward.....</quote>

Dean, that right there may have been what takes it from a fairly quick and easy job to one of rusted and broken studs to create all kinds of inventive new language. Hahaha

Just kidding. Hopefully everything comes apart easily. If It's like my WD45 it shouldn't be too bad unless you run into issues with studs (which I did).

Congrats on the picture!

Brad

  _____  

From: AT  <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Dean Vinson  <mailto:dean at vinsonfarm.net> <dean at vinsonfarm.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 10:23 AM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'  <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: [External] Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak 

Thanks, gentlemen!    That same tractor, sitting in that same spot, now needs some attention to fix an exhaust leak.   I went to use the tractor a few Saturdays ago, and right after firing it up noticed this regular tapping sound.   For some time now I've been noticing the exhaust pipe won't stay securely seated in the manifold and I have to tighten it up now and then, and every time I do so I worry the top of the manifold will crack apart, so I suspected it had finally cracked.   I walked around and took a little video, but didn't want to really get into it right then so I shut the tractor down and used another one (the Ford 3600) instead. 

Yesterday I did a little more investigation, and found at least one spot where the exhaust manifold gasket is bad.    A few video clips:

https://youtu.be/gAZ9FwxrC34
https://youtu.be/hHfx1c5Hu4s
https://youtu.be/v0qLG8xuPYM

I'm inclined to go ahead and replace the manifold, since I've been worrying about it anyway, and at minimum I have to replace the gasket.   Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward, just get the air intake pipe out of the way, unbolt the old manifold, replace the gasket, and put everything back together? 

Dean Vinson
Saint Paris, Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: AT  <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Mike M
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 9:13 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own

Congratulations  Dean very nice picture.

Mike M

On 1/30/2021 8:31 PM, Milo Holroyd wrote:
> Congratulations! Dean Vinson!
>
> https://mailchi.mp/21b62a015548/featured-tractor-photo-january?e=cfec74a33e
>
>
> Milo

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