[AT] history of PTO's on tractors .... when LIVE PTO

[Dean VP]

Carl,

Really good info

Dean VP
Snohomish, WA 98290
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and gospel of
envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."
..Winston Churchill...

-----Original Message-----
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Steve W.
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2021 9:03 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] history of PTO's on tractors .... when LIVE PTO

szabelski at wildblue.net wrote:
> Dean,
> 
> When I did our deck, I used clips. On the first and last boards I used 
> Trapease3 screws on the outside edges without clips. The screws are 
> designed with a small head that has a reverse thread at the top.
> When driven in, the reverse thread pulls the board in tighter and 
> eliminates puckering of the board around the screw head. No 
> predrilling and they come in colors that match the decking. They were 
> suggested and provided by the Trex distributor who is the main 
> distributor for all of southeast Michigan. Off hand I'd say the head 
> of the screw is about 1/8 - 3/16 in diameter from memory. Not 
> currently home so I can't give you an actual measurement, but you can 
> go online and probably get it. You really don't notice them. You'll 
> also have the same issue with any stairs that you put in. The inner 
> tread can be put in with clips, but the outer tread will require 
> screws.
> 
> Carl
> 

Regardless of who you use, make sure they are using the proper screws for
the PT lumber. The newer crud they use eats through steel like it's candy.
Neighbor built a new deck 3 years ago using some type of coated screws that
were supposed to handle the stuff, He is in the process of tearing much of
it apart because the screws are rusting through and failing!

Currently waiting for an Amish shop to finish my new 12X20 garden shed. 
They are using all rough cut and building it as a hybrid of post and beam
with common framing so it will have 2X4 studs every 16" and roof joists to
match. Then it will set for most of the summer to dry out. 
Then just prior to winter I plan on sealing any cracks, and shooting the
walls and roof with closed cell foam. The floor is already being built with
4" of extruded insulation between the joists and a layer of metal to keep
the critters out of the foam.

--
Steve W.
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