[AT] tractor electrical question
John Hall
jtchall at nc.rr.com
Thu Aug 26 14:15:08 PDT 2021
Only safety switch is the clutch pedal switch for cranking.
John
On 8/26/2021 8:11 AM, Aaron Dickinson wrote:
> That tractor is a little new for me, but are any of the safety
> switches inline with that supply. If the switch is a contact switch
> there could be corrosion on the contacts causing them to heat while
> running and possibly bleed off voltage? Our zero turn mower has a seat
> switch in the seat that literally gives you a hot seat.
>
> Aaron Dickinson
> Mason, MI
>
> *From:* John Hall <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 26, 2021 12:00 AM
> *To:* Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
> There is a wire tied in from the starter solenoid also. You would
> assume a new OEM coil to be good but who knows. All I know is it acts
> the same with both coils. I will note that the new coil had to be
> rotated 180 in the bracket to get it to hook up. The power is going in
> the plus side, just like schematic shows. Maybe they just put it in
> wrong at factory?
>
> John
>
> On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason wrote:
>
> Generally most coils have a resistor before them to lower the
> voltage so they don't burn up the points. Some applications have a
> booster wire from the small terminal on the starter solenoid.
> Since there is a voltage drop when cranking, this booster wire
> temporarily raises the voltage to help during starting.
>
> If everything else is fine. A coil that fails as it warms up is a
> coil getting close, to well, failing.
>
> Jason
>
> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 10:22 PM Howard Pletcher <hrpletch at gmail.com
> <mailto:hrpletch at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Is that the original coil?
>
> I'm not familiar with the 454, but in the truck world, most
> coils are intended for 6V use. There is a resistor wire in
> the harness that drops the voltage while the current is
> flowing with the points closed. But there are also coils
> intended for 12V use with no resistor wire. If that is not
> the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.
>
> Since it seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd probably run
> another wire from the ignition switch to the coil to bypass
> any possible resistor wire.
>
> Howard
>
> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 11:08 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com
> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>
> If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have found is
> the
> diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and is tied
> in on this
> particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side opposite
> the alternator
> is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.
>
> John Hall
>
>
> On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> > Maybe there’s an external resistor?
> >
> > Spencer
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall
> <jtchall at nc.rr.com <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
> >>
> >> Got what I hope is a simple question. On my IH 454
> tractor, is the voltage going to the coil a constant 12V?
> I'm having some issues with it running bad when it gets
> hot (I've already replaced everything but the plug wires).
> Found out today that if I run a jumper wire from battery
> to the coil, the problem goes away. Take it off problem
> comes back, put it back it goes away, take it off, it
> comes back. So I am tracing the wiring but this one isn't
> simple, new enough there are tons of gauges, fuel
> solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check
> voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid, and there is one
> small terminal on starter solenoid that all read 12V if
> the switch is on. If I bump the engine over slightly (I
> guess the pts are closing) then the coil and starter drop
> to just under 6V, fuel solenoid stays the same. So
> shouldn't there always be 12V at the coil?
> >>
> >> John Hall
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> --
> Howard
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