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Only safety switch is the clutch pedal switch for cranking.<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/26/2021 8:11 AM, Aaron Dickinson
wrote:<br>
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<div>That tractor is a little new for me, but are any of the
safety switches inline with that supply. If the switch is a
contact switch there could be corrosion on the contacts
causing them to heat while running and possibly bleed off
voltage? Our zero turn mower has a seat switch in the seat
that literally gives you a hot seat.<br>
</div>
<div data-signatureblock="true">
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Aaron Dickinson</div>
<div>Mason, MI</div>
<div><br>
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UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic',
'sans-serif'"><b>From:</b> <a
href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_parent"
moz-do-not-send="true">John Hall</a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, August 26, 2021 12:00
AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_parent" moz-do-not-send="true">Antique Tractor
Email Discussion Group</a></font></div>
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<div dir=""> There is a wire tied in from the starter solenoid
also. You would assume a new OEM coil to be good but who
knows. All I know is it acts the same with both coils. I will
note that the new coil had to be rotated 180 in the bracket to
get it to hook up. The power is going in the plus side, just
like schematic shows. Maybe they just put it in wrong at
factory?<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;"
cite="mid:CANbPaNHS6KAmsQjX2B9yox-53Ca6sdF5YSxH9revjmpHGoHriw@mail.gmail.com">
<div dir="auto">Generally most coils have a resistor before
them to lower the voltage so they don't burn up the
points. Some applications have a booster wire from the
small terminal on the starter solenoid. Since there is a
voltage drop when cranking, this booster wire temporarily
raises the voltage to help during starting.
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">If everything else is fine. A coil that
fails as it warms up is a coil getting close, to well,
failing.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Jason</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021,
10:22 PM Howard Pletcher <<a
href="mailto:hrpletch@gmail.com" target="_parent"
moz-do-not-send="true">hrpletch@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
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0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204,
204, 204); border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style:
solid;">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:
tahoma,sans-serif;">Is that the original coil?</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:
tahoma,sans-serif;"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:
tahoma,sans-serif;">I'm not familiar with the 454,
but in the truck world, most coils are intended for
6V use. There is a resistor wire in the harness
that drops the voltage while the current is flowing
with the points closed. But there are also coils
intended for 12V use with no resistor wire. If that
is not the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong
one.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:
tahoma,sans-serif;"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:
tahoma,sans-serif;">Since it seems to work fine with
12V applied, I'd probably run another wire from the
ignition switch to the coil to bypass any possible
resistor wire.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:
tahoma,sans-serif;"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:
tahoma,sans-serif;">Howard</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021
at 11:08 PM John Hall <<a
href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_parent"
rel="noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
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0px 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color:
rgb(204, 204, 204); border-left-width: 1px;
border-left-style: solid;"><br>
If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have
found is the <br>
diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and
is tied in on this <br>
particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side
opposite the alternator <br>
is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:<br>
> Maybe there’s an external resistor?<br>
><br>
> Spencer<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
><br>
>> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall
<<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_parent" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Got what I hope is a simple question. On
my IH 454 tractor, is the voltage going to the coil
a constant 12V? I'm having some issues with it
running bad when it gets hot (I've already replaced
everything but the plug wires). Found out today that
if I run a jumper wire from battery to the coil, the
problem goes away. Take it off problem comes back,
put it back it goes away, take it off, it comes
back. So I am tracing the wiring but this one isn't
simple, new enough there are tons of gauges, fuel
solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check
voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid, and there is
one small terminal on starter solenoid that all read
12V if the switch is on. If I bump the engine over
slightly (I guess the pts are closing) then the coil
and starter drop to just under 6V, fuel solenoid
stays the same. So shouldn't there always be 12V at
the coil?<br>
>><br>
>> John Hall<br>
>>
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<div dir="ltr">Howard</div>
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