[AT] tractor electrical question
John Hall
jtchall at nc.rr.com
Thu Aug 26 14:13:01 PDT 2021
Good reading!!!
On 8/26/2021 2:45 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
> https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=366678
> <https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=366678>
>
>
> https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/ignition-coils
> <https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/ignition-coils>
>
> Did a quick search and found these two links. Hope they help to
> understand how coils function.
>
> Carl
>
> On Thursday, August 26, 2021, Howard Pletcher <hrpletch at gmail.com
> <mailto:hrpletch at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> I would concentrate on the coil first. Defective new ones are not
> unheard of. Have you got another vehicle--tractor or car or
> truck--that you could swap with. Any that has 6V to the coil when
> running should work. If it won't fit your mounting, just secure
> it temporarily, be sure the case is well grounded, and see what
> happens as it runs for a time. And you can test the one from the
> tractor in the donor vehicle.
>
> Howard
>
> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 11:54 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com
> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> Ordered coil from CaseIH by the parts book is all I know. I
> have the same issue with either coil. After reading about
> ignition systems, it seems resistors are used in a different
> circuit for once engine is running, voltage is dropped so as
> not to burn points. 12 volts are sent for cranking only. I'm
> wondering if there is a resistor somewhere thats failing when
> it gets hot?
>
> John Hall
>
>
>
> On 8/25/2021 11:21 PM, Howard Pletcher wrote:
>> Is that the original coil?
>>
>> I'm not familiar with the 454, but in the truck world, most
>> coils are intended for 6V use. There is a resistor wire in
>> the harness that drops the voltage while the current is
>> flowing with the points closed. But there are also coils
>> intended for 12V use with no resistor wire. If that is not
>> the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.
>>
>> Since it seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd probably
>> run another wire from the ignition switch to the coil to
>> bypass any possible resistor wire.
>>
>> Howard
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 11:08 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com
>> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have found
>> is the
>> diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and is
>> tied in on this
>> particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side opposite
>> the alternator
>> is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>>
>> On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>> > Maybe there’s an external resistor?
>> >
>> > Spencer
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall
>> <jtchall at nc.rr.com <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Got what I hope is a simple question. On my IH 454
>> tractor, is the voltage going to the coil a constant 12V?
>> I'm having some issues with it running bad when it gets
>> hot (I've already replaced everything but the plug
>> wires). Found out today that if I run a jumper wire from
>> battery to the coil, the problem goes away. Take it off
>> problem comes back, put it back it goes away, take it
>> off, it comes back. So I am tracing the wiring but this
>> one isn't simple, new enough there are tons of gauges,
>> fuel solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check
>> voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid, and there is one
>> small terminal on starter solenoid that all read 12V if
>> the switch is on. If I bump the engine over slightly (I
>> guess the pts are closing) then the coil and starter drop
>> to just under 6V, fuel solenoid stays the same. So
>> shouldn't there always be 12V at the coil?
>> >>
>> >> John Hall
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>> --
>> Howard
>>
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