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Good reading!!!<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/26/2021 2:45 PM, Carl Szabelski
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CALdF5zcEtg1UAYJj6LE2hyPjDDqeo4V=c0Zy9_WUBTTtuxrn7w@mail.gmail.com">
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<a
href="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=366678"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.<wbr>yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-<wbr>bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=<wbr>366678</a>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><a
href="https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/ignition-coils"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/ignition-coils</a><br>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Did a quick search and found these two links. Hope they
help to understand how coils function.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Carl</div>
<div><br>
On Thursday, August 26, 2021, Howard Pletcher <<a
href="mailto:hrpletch@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">hrpletch@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">I would
concentrate on the coil first. Defective new ones are
not unheard of. Have you got another vehicle--tractor
or car or truck--that you could swap with. Any that has
6V to the coil when running should work. If it won't
fit your mounting, just secure it temporarily, be sure
the case is well grounded, and see what happens as it
runs for a time. And you can test the one from the
tractor in the donor vehicle.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Howard</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at
11:54 PM John Hall <<a
href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Ordered coil from CaseIH by the parts book is all
I know. I have the same issue with either coil. After
reading about ignition systems, it seems resistors are
used in a different circuit for once engine is
running, voltage is dropped so as not to burn points.
12 volts are sent for cranking only. I'm wondering if
there is a resistor somewhere thats failing when it
gets hot?<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 8/25/2021 11:21 PM, Howard Pletcher wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Is that
the original coil?</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">I'm not
familiar with the 454, but in the truck world,
most coils are intended for 6V use. There is a
resistor wire in the harness that drops the
voltage while the current is flowing with the
points closed. But there are also coils
intended for 12V use with no resistor wire. If
that is not the original coil, perhaps you have
the wrong one.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Since it
seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd
probably run another wire from the ignition
switch to the coil to bypass any possible
resistor wire.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Howard</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 25,
2021 at 11:08 PM John Hall <<a
href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>
If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I
have found is the <br>
diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline
and is tied in on this <br>
particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side
opposite the alternator <br>
is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:<br>
> Maybe there’s an external resistor?<br>
><br>
> Spencer<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
><br>
>> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall
<<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Got what I hope is a simple question.
On my IH 454 tractor, is the voltage going to
the coil a constant 12V? I'm having some issues
with it running bad when it gets hot (I've
already replaced everything but the plug wires).
Found out today that if I run a jumper wire from
battery to the coil, the problem goes away. Take
it off problem comes back, put it back it goes
away, take it off, it comes back. So I am
tracing the wiring but this one isn't simple,
new enough there are tons of gauges, fuel
solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I
check voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid,
and there is one small terminal on starter
solenoid that all read 12V if the switch is on.
If I bump the engine over slightly (I guess the
pts are closing) then the coil and starter drop
to just under 6V, fuel solenoid stays the same.
So shouldn't there always be 12V at the coil?<br>
>><br>
>> John Hall<br>
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-- <br>
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<div dir="ltr">Howard</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Howard</div>
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