[AT] tractor electrical question

Aaron Dickinson a_dickinson at att.net
Thu Aug 26 05:11:35 PDT 2021


That tractor is a little new for me, but are any of the safety switches inline with that supply. If the switch is a contact switch there could be corrosion on the contacts causing them to heat while running and possibly bleed off voltage? Our zero turn mower has a seat switch in the seat that literally gives you a hot seat.






Aaron Dickinson

Mason, MI





From: John Hall
Sent: ‎Thursday‎, ‎August‎ ‎26‎, ‎2021 ‎12‎:‎00‎ ‎AM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group




There is a wire tied in from the starter solenoid also. You would assume a new OEM coil to be good but who knows. All I know is it acts the same with both coils. I will note that the new coil had to be rotated 180 in the bracket to get it to hook up. The power is going in the plus side, just like schematic shows. Maybe they just put it in wrong at factory?

John


On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason wrote:



Generally most coils have a resistor before them to lower the voltage so they don't burn up the points. Some applications have a booster wire from the small  terminal on the starter solenoid. Since there is a voltage drop when cranking, this booster wire temporarily raises the voltage to help during starting. 



If everything else is fine. A coil that fails as it warms up is a coil getting close, to well, failing.




Jason



On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 10:22 PM Howard Pletcher <hrpletch at gmail.com> wrote:




Is that the original coil?




I'm not familiar with the 454, but in the truck world, most coils are intended for 6V use.  There is a resistor wire in the harness that drops the voltage while the current is flowing with the points closed.  But there are also coils intended for 12V use with no resistor wire.  If that is not the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.




Since it seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd probably run another wire from the ignition switch to the coil to bypass any possible resistor wire.




Howard



On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 11:08 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:



If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have found is the 
diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and is tied in on this 
particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side opposite the alternator 
is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.

John Hall


On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> Maybe there’s an external resistor?
>
> Spencer
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> Got what I hope is a simple question. On my IH 454 tractor, is the voltage going to the coil a constant 12V? I'm having some issues with it running bad when it gets hot (I've already replaced everything but the plug wires). Found out today that if I run a jumper wire from battery to the coil, the problem goes away. Take it off problem comes back, put it back it goes away, take it off, it comes back. So I am tracing the wiring but this one isn't simple, new enough there are tons of gauges, fuel solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid, and there is one small terminal on starter solenoid that all read 12V if the switch is on. If I bump the engine over slightly (I guess the pts are closing) then the coil and starter drop to just under 6V, fuel solenoid stays the same. So shouldn't there always be 12V at the coil?
>>
>> John Hall
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-- 


Howard
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