[AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

Dean VP deanvp at att.net
Sat Nov 28 19:21:15 PST 2020


Mitch,

 

Do you think the 4 studs are bad enough that they HAVE to be replaced?

 

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ

 

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Mitchell Daly
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2020 7:30 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

 

Dean,

 

Congrats on the successful disassembly. Great pictures. You're definitely on
your way to solving the problem. Keep us up to date. 

 

Mitch 
md31043 at msn.com <mailto:md31043 at msn.com> 

 

  _____  

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
<mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > on behalf of Dean VP
<deanvp at att.net <mailto:deanvp at att.net> >
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2020 9:00 PM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
<mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> >
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress. 

 

Was able to get the Head/Manifold out of the tractor today. Difficult is an
understatement. Had to unbolt the head to water pipe but with a little
convincing we wedged it out.  Based on available tools I used an air grinder
with a small cutoff disk to cut opposite sides off each nut down to thread
level;.  Then with a little rounding of edges the available nut breaker was
used on the remaining part of the nuts.   Heat didn't have any effect that I
could tell since all I had to use for heat was a propane torch.  The nut
breaker helped but what seemed to work the best was to just use a punch to
break away the remaining part of the nut. Was able to save all for studs
without twisting them off. The studs are a bit worse for wear but I am not
about to attempt removing them.  They show water/rust damage and a couple
threads were damaged when cutting of the nut but it was minor so I think all
4 studs will still do the job.   Will chase the threads, thread one stud
further down and clean up the ends to all be uniform.  So I think I dodged a
bullet on the studs.

 

The manifold mating surface to the head looked ok but need to clean it up. I
didn't detect any gasket leakage between the intake and exhaust side of the
manifold gasket.  So. Where was the leakage between the intake and exhaust.
Yes, testing the manifold under pressure on the intake there is leakage to
the exhaust side. So this whole exercise was not for naught.  So a
replacement manifold is needed. It is not obvious where it is leaking.  The
manifold is in far better shape internally than I expected.  It is going to
take some kind of bore scope to find the hole which isn't very big. 

 

The head is in far better shape than I expected. My guess is that the head
has been off recently and by the lack of carbon deposits and the initial
appearance of the valve heads this engine has been worked on not too long
ago.  The valves don't appear to have been ground thin but will do some
inspection tomorrow on the valve surfaces.   Have a valve compressor
available. Would like to see if I can find out why one cylinder registered
10% lower compression than the other.   Hopefully, I can find that a valve
or two needs regrinding to answer that question.   The tractor has never
belched blue smoke of any kind  and the only smoke I have seen is black
smoke from too much gas. One side of the head combustion chamber surface is
a little oily. Need to chase that down.

 

Here are some pictures of the head and manifold. I don't know what the
pictures limits are here on ATIS sop I will try three pictures and if that
don't work I'll drop down to one at a time

 

 

 

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ

 

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
<mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > On Behalf Of Dean VP
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 9:01 PM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
<mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> >
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

 

Brice,

 

Thanks for the tip. That is similar to a previous suggestion here on ATIS.
Hopefully I will be able to start attacking these nuts tomorrow.

 

 

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ

 

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
<mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > On Behalf Of Brice Adams
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 8:15 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com
<mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> >
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

 

Dean,

After 3 H and 2 B manifold replacements the best technique I've found for
trying to save the studs is to cut off one side of the nut as close to the
threads as I can with a Dremel cutoff tool then either grind or file as
close to the stud threads as I can.

Repeatedly heat and cool the remainder of the nut until I can get it to turn
with vice grips.

Brice

 

On Fri, Nov 27, 2020 at 8:53 PM Dean VP <deanvp at att.net
<mailto:deanvp at att.net> > wrote:

I have one of those Craftsman stud removal tools that has a hole through two
parallel  flanges with a gripper type cam sandwiched in between, You use a
1/2" breaker bar on the cam and supposedly it will give you the grip that is
needed to turn the stud out.  Of coursed mine in the shop in WA and I'm 1600
miles from it.  I need to check if my friend has one of those tools. He has
more Craftsman tools than God.  A good pipe Wrench will get close to doing
the same thing.  My plan is to not try to remove the studs unless they HAVE
to be replaced. My first attack it to try to get the 4 nuts off of the 4
studs w/o twisting off the studs. Then slide the manifold up four inches and
off.   Haven't been able to work on it the last two days but hope to get
back at it tomorrow. 

Dean VP
Apache Junction, AZ

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