[AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

Sat Nov 28 18:30:06 PST 2020

Dean,

Congrats on the successful disassembly. Great pictures. You're definitely on your way to solving the problem. Keep us up to date.

Mitch
md31043 at msn.com

________________________________
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Dean VP <deanvp at att.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2020 9:00 PM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

Was able to get the Head/Manifold out of the tractor today. Difficult is a understatement. Had to unbolt the head to water pipe but with a little convincing we wedged it out.  Based on available tools I used an air grinder with a small cutoff disk to cut opposite sides off each nut down to thread level;.  Then with a little rounding of edges the available nut breaker was used on the remaining part of the nuts.   Heat didn’t have any effect that I could tell since all I had to use for heat was a propane torch.  The nut breaker helped but what seemed to work the best was to just use a punch to break away the remaining part of the nut. Was able to save all for studs without twisting them off. The studs are a bit worse for wear but I am not about to attempt removing them.  They show water/rust damage and a couple threads were damaged when cutting of the nut but it was minor so I think all 4 studs will still do the job.   Will chase the threads, thread one stud further down and clean up the ends to all be uniform.  So I think I dodged a bullet on the studs.

The manifold mating surface to the head looked ok but need to clean it up. I didn’t detect any gasket leakage between the intake and exhaust side of the manifold gasket.  So. Where was the leakage between the intake and exhaust. Yes, testing the manifold under pressure on the intake there is leakage to the exhaust side. So this whole exercise was not for naught.  So a replacement manifold is needed. It is not obvious where it is leaking.  The manifold is in far better shape internally than I expected.  It is going to take some kind of bore scope to find the hole which isn’t very big.

The head is in far better shape than I expected. My guess is that the head has been off recently and by the lack of carbon deposits and the initial appearance of the valve heads this engine has been worked on not too long ago.  The valves don’t appear to have been ground thin but will do some inspection tomorrow on the valve surfaces.   Have a valve compressor available. Would like to see if I can find out why one cylinder registered 10% lower compression than the other.   Hopefully, I can find that a valve or two needs regrinding to answer that question.   The tractor has never belched blue smoke of any kind  and the only smoke I have seen is black smoke from too much gas. One side of the head combustion chamber surface is a little oily. Need to chase that down.

Here are some pictures of the head and manifold. I don’t know what the pictures limits are here on ATIS sop I will try three pictures and if that don’t work I’ll drop down to one at a time

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Dean VP
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 9:01 PM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

Brice,

Thanks for the tip. That is similar to a previous suggestion here on ATIS.  Hopefully I will be able to start attacking these nuts tomorrow.

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>> On Behalf Of Brice Adams
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 8:15 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

Dean,

After 3 H and 2 B manifold replacements the best technique I've found for trying to save the studs is to cut off one side of the nut as close to the threads as I can with a Dremel cutoff tool then either grind or file as close to the stud threads as I can.

Repeatedly heat and cool the remainder of the nut until I can get it to turn with vice grips.

Brice

On Fri, Nov 27, 2020 at 8:53 PM Dean VP <deanvp at att.net<mailto:deanvp at att.net>> wrote:

I have one of those Craftsman stud removal tools that has a hole through two parallel  flanges with a gripper type cam sandwiched in between, You use a 1/2" breaker bar on the cam and supposedly it will give you the grip that is needed to turn the stud out.  Of coursed mine in the shop in WA and I'm 1600 miles from it.  I need to check if my friend has one of those tools. He has more Craftsman tools than God.  A good pipe Wrench will get close to doing the same thing.  My plan is to not try to remove the studs unless they HAVE to be replaced. My first attack it to try to get the 4 nuts off of the 4 studs w/o twisting off the studs. Then slide the manifold up four inches and off.   Haven't been able to work on it the last two days but hope to get back at it tomorrow.

Dean VP
Apache Junction, AZ
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