[AT] Project Updates '49 A, '51 A, and '47 B (STEVE ALLEN)

[deanvp]

Relative to the tank,  take it off and throw in the bunch a big bunch of nuts,  bunch, meaning 10 or more. Square headed nuts work the best. Tie the tank on to something that rotates and run it that way for at least a couple of hours letting the nuts beat up the inside of the tank to remove the rusty scale.  Then remove the nuts and the loose scale.  Then purchase some tank etching solution and sealer.  That is the only way you are going to stop the loose scale from continuing to come loose.The points reading 0.5 ohms closed and 0.7 ohms open. Is a serious problem.  When the points are closed they should read the same as what your ohm meter reads when shorting the two test leads together. 0.000 ohms would be perfect.  When the points are open the reading should be many megohms. O.7 ohms is essentially still closed.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
-------- Original message --------From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net> Date: 5/10/20  5:00 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com Subject: Re: [AT] Project Updates  '49 A, '51 A, and '47 B (STEVE ALLEN) OK, two quick updates that I hope will generate more ideas.'51 A:We're finding a lot of loose, rust scale in the tank.  When I say a "lot," I don't mean the bottom is covered with it,  But, dangling a flashlight inside, I saw what appeared to be some "stuff" around the outlet.  So we used magnets on extendable rods, and pulled out a couple ounces of scale.  Finally, the magnet came out clean.  Ran the tractor.  More starvation.  Put the magnet back in, more loads of scale came out.  The bottom of the take looks pretty clean, but there are small, dark patches that I think represent some more or at least places where the coating (if any) is worn.  did these tanks come with a coating?  Anyway. the fuel flow seems much better as we reduce the amount of scale in there, but we have more to go.  Is there a better cleaning process?  I seem to remember someone suggesting a powerful magnet near the outlet to catch such crud.  Or am I remembering something else??'49 A:No spar4k from the mag, either using the plug or, per the manual, a wire with an 1/8" gap to ground.  No spark either one.  I checked continuity on the points per Dean.  My meter read .5 Ohms with the points closed and .7 Ohms with them open (separated by a thin piece of cardboard).  I seem to have good continuity on the cap; visual inspection shows no cracks, but will have to check that further.  No continuity between the interior contacts and the center contact, at least.  No kill switch or other possible ground through the cap or the case.  Rotor clean and checked for proper continuity:  center button to contact has continuity; no continuity between center button and the metal plate inside which touches the shaft.Carl:  I don't quite get what you mean by wiring with a coil replacing the mag.  Could you explain more?Dean:  used some very fine sand paper on the points to clean them.  .5 Ohms with them closed; .7 Ohms with them open (separated by cardboard).  I have another mag, but it hasn't been used in many years; a new cap is about $60+ shipped; would prefer not to order unless I am sure the cap is bad.  Do the Ohm readings on the points suggest a problem?Thanks again, all!The "original" Steve AllenDoing my part to keep the list active._______________________________________________AT mailing listAT at lists.antique-tractor.comhttp://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
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