[AT] Rear main seals

[Spencer Yost]

Thanks Cecil.  I never have done that, but will certainly do that on the repair.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 19, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> I usually soak the seals in light oil for at least  1/2 day.  Then when I get them totally pushed into the slot, I cut the ends off flush with the cap with a razor blade.   Then I use a little silicone on a screwdriver to put some on the end of the bottom seal when I put them together.  This is the way we did it in the tractor shop years ago.  However at that time we used 3M weatherstrip sealer..  It still works great too.  
> Cecil
> 
> On 3/19/2020 6:23 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>> The pacer has developed a fairly significant rear main seal leak after 20+ years.  It’s gotten to the I have to have pizza boxes underneath it.  My luck with the old tar rope rear main seals has been spotty at best so I wanted to outline my procedures and see what I might be doing wrong.
>> 
>>  I first gently use a wooden dowel to create a bit of an oblong shape and then snug the pair into the block and  the rear main seal carrier.  Then I gently fray the ends of both ropes.  Nothing serious, just open them up a bit This I was taught to ensure the intersections interleave and there’s no significant leaks at the two intersections.  
>> 
>> Then I attach the rear main carrier and inspect closely, making sure the ends interlace nicely and there are no gaps.
>> 
>> In just about every case I can expect leaks to begin with in 10 years and replacement time to show up within 20.
>> 
>> I must be doing something wrong.  What’s everybody else’s technique for this?
>> 
>> PS:  If the tractor is a show queen I typically don’t have problems. But if you remember of the pacer has been on duty its entire life since it’s restoration discing fields, helping with hay, etc.
>> 
>> Spencer
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
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