<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Thanks Cecil. I never have done that, but will certainly do that on the repair.<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Mar 19, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden@copper.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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<p>I usually soak the seals in light oil for at least 1/2 day.
Then when I get them totally pushed into the slot, I cut the ends
off flush with the cap with a razor blade. Then I use a little
silicone on a screwdriver to put some on the end of the bottom
seal when I put them together. This is the way we did it in the
tractor shop years ago. However at that time we used 3M
weatherstrip sealer.. It still works great too. <br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/19/2020 6:23 PM, Spencer Yost
wrote:<br>
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The pacer has developed a fairly significant rear main seal leak
after 20+ years. It’s gotten to the I have to have pizza boxes
underneath it. <span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color:
rgb(0, 0, 0);">My luck with the old tar rope rear main seals has
been spotty at best so I wanted to outline my procedures and see
what I might be doing wrong.</span>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"> I first gently use a wooden dowel to create a bit of
an oblong shape and then snug the pair into the block and
the rear main seal carrier. </span></font><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">Then I
gently fray the ends of both ropes. Nothing serious, just
open them up a bit This I was taught to ensure the
intersections interleave and there’s no significant leaks at
the two intersections. </span></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);">Then I attach the rear main carrier and inspect
closely, making sure the ends interlace nicely and there are
no gaps.</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);">In just about every case I can expect leaks to begin
with in 10 years and replacement time to show up within 20.</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);">I must be doing something wrong. What’s everybody
else’s technique for this?</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);">PS: If the tractor is a show queen I typically don’t
have problems. But if you remember of the pacer has been on
duty its entire life since it’s restoration discing fields,
helping with hay, etc.</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);">Spencer</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0,
0);"><br>
</span></font></div>
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<div dir="ltr">Sent
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