[AT] Rivets and rivet countersink

[jdnut at aol.com]

now you're talking!!


-----Original Message-----
From: szabelski <szabelski at wildblue.net>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 9, 2020 12:25 pm
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink

John,

Go on Craig’s list and find somebody who is getting rid of an old barbecue grill, they can get up to over 300 degrees and have a large work surface. I used one to heat up the crankshaft pulley on my Cub before I pressed it on.

While your at it, grill yourself some hotdogs or maybe a nice steak.😜

Carl


----- Original Message -----
From: jdnut at aol.com
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Mon, 09 Mar 2020 10:05:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink

A bit of an update on this, since I think I started this thread.  Thanks for all that responded.  
In looking at some of the antique car sites.... it looks to me like the Pliobond HT-30 adhesive available from McMaster for about $46 per quart is probably a reasonable choice to bond the linings to the brake shoes.  The drawback is that it needs to be cured for 30 minutes at 300 degrees.  Given that there are places where it can't be sent... I suspect there are fumes involved, thus not for home kitchen use.  
Some of the car people mentioned using JB Weld, .... but due to the lower melting point compared to the Pliobond, most of the people thought it was a safety hazard in cars.  Supposedly, the JB Weld can stand 500 degrees F, with short transients to 600 degrees.  In my tractor usage, it is not like I am using my brakes down a long steep highway hill.  
I have been doing some removal of brakes from part of my herd, and I have quite a bit of brake lining work ahead.  For the most part, I am planning on doing the combination of adhesive (probably JB Weld) and rivets.  For the linings that I have to drill and countersink the holes, I followed the advice of one of the respondents, and purchased a set of brad point bits from HF, along with some of the little circular stops that can be put on the bits.  I need to file the cutters on the outside of the bits flat with the rest of the bit, but overall I felt pretty good about the HF purchase.  McMaster also looks to be a decent place to buy rivets.  I figure the adhesive will help hold things in place better than vice grips when doing the drilling and countersinking.  I pretty much work by myself, this is a job that another pair of hands might be useful.
If I have a measure of success, I will send along some pictures.
Thanks again, take care, John Maxwell, Ferndale CA   



-----Original Message-----
From: Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 3:49 pm
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink

I Googled brake shoe adhesive and got a boat load of stuff. I suspect that a lot of auto parts places have it on hand, especially someplace like NAPA stock it or can at least order it. One site for Raybestos says it has it in quart cans.A combination of adhesive and rivets would probably be a good move.


.
On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 9:57 AM James Peck <jamesgpeck at hotmail.com> wrote:

I had a contact who had retired from the former Detroit axle facility of chrysler. He made the point that that facility had an extremely wide range of manufacturing processes, including bonding brake linings to shoes.  

Cecil Bearden AT List member, Oklahoma farmer, and Professional Engineer (crbearden at copper.net); Just an afterthought.  Most brake shoes are bonded.  A heat curing glue is used to glue the shoe to the lining.  If you can find the glue the rivets would hold the lining on until the glue would set.  I have a brake shoe oven, bought long ago at a Chrysler dealership that started out as a blacksmith shop in the late 1800's.  However, the glue can was empty and no label.

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-- 
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Francis Robinson
aka "farmer"
Central Indiana USA
robinson46176 at gmail.com








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