[AT] Rivets and rivet countersink

[Cecil Bearden]

Yo might take a look at this 
https://www.ecklers.com/brake-shoe-lining-riveting-tool-removes-and-installs-47-68184-1.html

Cecil

On 3/9/2020 9:05 AM, jdnut at aol.com wrote:
> A bit of an update on this, since I think I started this thread. 
>  Thanks for all that responded.
>
> In looking at some of the antique car sites.... it looks to me like 
> the Pliobond HT-30 adhesive available from McMaster for about $46 per 
> quart is probably a reasonable choice to bond the linings to the brake 
> shoes.  The drawback is that it needs to be cured for 30 minutes at 
> 300 degrees.  Given that there are places where it can't be sent... I 
> suspect there are fumes involved, thus not for home kitchen use.
>
> Some of the car people mentioned using JB Weld, .... but due to the 
> lower melting point compared to the Pliobond, most of the people 
> thought it was a safety hazard in cars.  Supposedly, the JB Weld can 
> stand 500 degrees F, with short transients to 600 degrees.  In my 
> tractor usage, it is not like I am using my brakes down a long steep 
> highway hill.
>
> I have been doing some removal of brakes from part of my herd, and I 
> have quite a bit of brake lining work ahead.  For the most part, I am 
> planning on doing the combination of adhesive (probably JB Weld) and 
> rivets.  For the linings that I have to drill and countersink the 
> holes, I followed the advice of one of the respondents, and purchased 
> a set of brad point bits from HF, along with some of the little 
> circular stops that can be put on the bits.  I need to file the 
> cutters on the outside of the bits flat with the rest of the bit, but 
> overall I felt pretty good about the HF purchase.  McMaster also looks 
> to be a decent place to buy rivets.  I figure the adhesive will help 
> hold things in place better than vice grips when doing the drilling 
> and countersinking.  I pretty much work by myself, this is a job that 
> another pair of hands might be useful.
>
> If I have a measure of success, I will send along some pictures.
>
> Thanks again, take care,
> John Maxwell, Ferndale CA
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 3:49 pm
> Subject: Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink
>
> I Googled brake shoe adhesive and got a boat load of stuff. I suspect 
> that a lot of auto parts places have it on hand, especially someplace 
> like NAPA stock it or can at least order it. One site for Raybestos 
> says it has it in quart cans.
> A combination of adhesive and rivets would probably be a good move.
>
>
> .
>
> On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 9:57 AM James Peck <jamesgpeck at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>     I had a contact who had retired from the former Detroit axle
>     facility of chrysler. He made the point that that facility had an
>     extremely wide range of manufacturing processes, including bonding
>     brake linings to shoes.
>
>     Cecil Bearden AT List member, Oklahoma farmer, and Professional
>     Engineer (crbearden at copper.net); Just an afterthought.  Most brake
>     shoes are bonded.  A heat curing glue is used to glue the shoe to
>     the lining.  If you can find the glue the rivets would hold the
>     lining on until the glue would set.  I have a brake shoe oven,
>     bought long ago at a Chrysler dealership that started out as a
>     blacksmith shop in the late 1800's.  However, the glue can was
>     empty and no label.
>
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>
> -- 
> -- 
>
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>
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