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<p>Yo might take a look at this
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.ecklers.com/brake-shoe-lining-riveting-tool-removes-and-installs-47-68184-1.html">https://www.ecklers.com/brake-shoe-lining-riveting-tool-removes-and-installs-47-68184-1.html</a></p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/9/2020 9:05 AM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jdnut@aol.com">jdnut@aol.com</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:42175524.1317953.1583762749086@mail.yahoo.com">
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<div style="color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A
bit of an update on this, since I think I started this thread.
Thanks for all that responded.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>In looking at some of the antique car sites.... it looks to
me like the Pliobond HT-30 adhesive available from McMaster
for about $46 per quart is probably a reasonable choice to
bond the linings to the brake shoes. The drawback is that it
needs to be cured for 30 minutes at 300 degrees. Given that
there are places where it can't be sent... I suspect there are
fumes involved, thus not for home kitchen use. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Some of the car people mentioned using JB Weld, .... but
due to the lower melting point compared to the Pliobond, most
of the people thought it was a safety hazard in cars.
Supposedly, the JB Weld can stand 500 degrees F, with short
transients to 600 degrees. In my tractor usage, it is not
like I am using my brakes down a long steep highway hill. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have been doing some removal of brakes from part of my
herd, and I have quite a bit of brake lining work ahead. For
the most part, I am planning on doing the combination of
adhesive (probably JB Weld) and rivets. For the linings that
I have to drill and countersink the holes, I followed the
advice of one of the respondents, and purchased a set of brad
point bits from HF, along with some of the little circular
stops that can be put on the bits. I need to file the cutters
on the outside of the bits flat with the rest of the bit, but
overall I felt pretty good about the HF purchase. McMaster
also looks to be a decent place to buy rivets. I figure the
adhesive will help hold things in place better than vice grips
when doing the drilling and countersinking. I pretty much
work by myself, this is a job that another pair of hands might
be useful.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>If I have a measure of success, I will send along some
pictures.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks again, take care, </div>
<div>John Maxwell, Ferndale CA </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<br>
<br>
<div
style="font-family:helvetica,arial;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Indiana Robinson <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"><robinson46176@gmail.com></a><br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at@lists.antique-tractor.com></a><br>
Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 3:49 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivets and rivet countersink<br>
<br>
<div id="yiv5936866449">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">I Googled brake shoe adhesive and got a
boat load of stuff. I suspect that a lot of auto parts
places have it on hand, especially someplace like NAPA
stock it or can at least order it. One site for
Raybestos says it has it in quart cans.
<div>A combination of adhesive and rivets would
probably be a good move.<br clear="none">
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>.</div>
</div>
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div class="yiv5936866449yqt3069767783"
id="yiv5936866449yqt32162">
<div class="yiv5936866449gmail_quote">
<div class="yiv5936866449gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On
Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 9:57 AM James Peck <<a
rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect"
ymailto="mailto:jamesgpeck@hotmail.com"
target="_blank"
removedlink__fdaf7eac-79ef-41a3-89fb-dc9bc74569e6__href="mailto:jamesgpeck@hotmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">jamesgpeck@hotmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote class="yiv5936866449gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">I had a
contact who had retired from the former Detroit
axle facility of chrysler. He made the point that
that facility had an extremely wide range of
manufacturing processes, including bonding brake
linings to shoes. <br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Cecil Bearden AT List member, Oklahoma farmer, and
Professional Engineer (<a rel="noopener
noreferrer" shape="rect"
ymailto="mailto:crbearden@copper.net"
target="_blank"
removedlink__fdaf7eac-79ef-41a3-89fb-dc9bc74569e6__href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">crbearden@copper.net</a>);
Just an afterthought. Most brake shoes are
bonded. A heat curing glue is used to glue the
shoe to the lining. If you can find the glue the
rivets would hold the lining on until the glue
would set. I have a brake shoe oven, bought long
ago at a Chrysler dealership that started out as a
blacksmith shop in the late 1800's. However, the
glue can was empty and no label.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
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<div>-- <br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Francis Robinson<br clear="none">
aka "farmer"<br clear="none">
Central Indiana USA<br clear="none">
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