[AT] Small UPDATE: '47 B

Thu Jul 16 13:29:41 PDT 2020

A voltage regulator is designed to provide a specific output voltage regardless of the input voltage. However, there are limits to which you can do this. There is always a maximum input voltage that can’t be exceeded without damaging the regulator. 12V on a 6V regulator shouldn’t be a problem. You could probably go to 24V on a 6V regulator, depending on its individual components, and be OK. Anything more and you’d be pushing it. The regulator components each have their own operating voltage limits, and the lowest rated will more than likely be the first to fail. I’d check the manufacturers specs first to ensure you don’t create any smoke. They manufacturer probably designed the regulator to operate at voltages higher than rated in order to handle voltage surges/spikes, but to what limit is the question.

Carl

----- Original Message -----
From: Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 14:42:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [AT] Small UPDATE: '47 B

Just FYI  you can use a 12 volt generator on a 6 volts system as long as 
the regulator is 6 volt.  I did this several times when we put an 8 volt 
battery in a 6 volt system  Lights work better too.
Cecil

On 7/15/2020 10:39 PM, jdnut at aol.com wrote:
> Steve,
> Carl has responded, and he is a lot more learned about this stuff than 
> me.  I will just tell you what I did..... on my Dad's 45 Model A Deere 
> (6 volt) and two other six volt tractors, including a 45 BR.  I don't 
> know if your 47 is 6 or 12 volt.  If it is 6 volt, I believe that the 
> suggested wires are a little on the light side, though it is in my DNA 
> to overbuild most things.  On my Dad's 1945 Model "A", I got at least 
> 0 welding wire... could have been 00, but I think 0.  When you do your 
> measurements, add 2-3 inches because the wire is pretty stiff. 
>  Because I was more interested in function than being factory 
> original, I had the ground wire made so I could bolt it directly to 
> the starter.  Spencer had a company in "Florida" make some cables for 
> him a little while ago, I believe.  If your tractor is 12 volt, you 
> could probably reduce wire size by a notch... but if battery is under 
> the seat, that is a pretty long cable, so I might still go with 
> something pretty heavy.
>
> Regarding the wiring harness, on my 1945 BR, also 6 volt, I probably 
> have 10 gauge wire running to the generator and to the starter 
> solenoid.  Probably 12 or 14  gauge for the rest... will check in the 
> morning if you are interested...
>
> One of the list members might have a rebuilt generator for your 
> tractor, and you might be surprised that you may still have a shop 
> that can rebuild them.  I reverse engineered a rebuilt one that I 
> bought and now have rebuilt a couple myself.  Again, if six volt, 
> possibly a little extra work involved.  Hardest thing for me was 
> replacing the field coils.
>
> Regarding spark plugs....Ferndale is pretty much on the northern CA 
> coast.... not a lot of fire danger.... so... in case I start some sort 
> of flame session... I like Autolite spark plugs in my two cylinders.
>
> Good luck and take care,
> John Maxwell
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Sent: Wed, Jul 15, 2020 1:37 pm
> Subject: [AT] Small UPDATE: '47 B
>
> YOU asked for it!
>
> My son has been called back to work as of next week, so we have been 
> trying to get a number of things done--especially he has because I am 
> in the office every day.  In addition to keeping up with the grass and 
> making preparations for an ACW re-enactment on the 25th/26th (assuming 
> it actually comes off and isn't cancelled), he has been doing more 
> work on the '47 JD B.
>
> We had tested the starter, and I told him to begin looking at the 
> battery cables and wiring.  He called me out to review his findings.  
> The negative cable that goes to the starter may be original.  The 
> terminal on the starter end looks to be in good shape, but the 
> connection is under a bunch of dried dirt and oil.  The battery 
> connection is junk.  We pulled I out, and we are going to at least 
> replace the ends.  I may replace the entire cable.  I am not sure what 
> gauge it is--is there a way to tell?--and I want to make sure that we 
> have a GOOD circuit.  The positive (ground) cable is just junk.  We're 
> definitely replacing it. Since we had to take off the battery box, I 
> told him to clean it up.  He freed up the seat so that it adjusts 
> again--that hasn't happened since 1980, at least.  We're debating 
> getting a replacement harness for the wiring:  the original wiring is 
> mostly gone, and the cobbled-together replacements are cut and dangling.
>
> We know the generator needs work, but I have to find a shop.  The one 
> that used to be around here is long gone.  I'll bet the regulator is 
> junk, too.  Since it is a Mag tractor, we don't *need* those features 
> just to get it going, we have time to decide.  Speaking of the mag, we 
> need to begin collecting the necessary parts to overhaul it.  The 
> inside is not rusted or gunked up, but it is dirty, so it will get new 
> guts.  The coil in it was replaced among the last thing I ever did to 
> the tractor 'way back when, so am not worried about it. We'll need new 
> wires, plugs, etc.  In fact, I want to put new plugs in all three.
>
> Let me therefore ask a dangerous question:  What's everyone's favorite 
> 2-cylinder plug?
>
> Anyway, the carb just needs to be reassembled, and we can put the 
> intake system back together.  Oh, actually, we need a new air cleaner 
> oil cup, for he found a hole in the one on there.  It's always something!
>
> OK, so that's the latest at our place.  Now, it's someone else's turn ;-)
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
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