[AT] Cub - Update

Mon Jul 6 20:33:34 PDT 2020

I used to rivet but use the bolts now.  I’ve not had a problem with bolts on a NH haybine or an IH mower/conditioner I used to have.     My John Deere #5 was in such bad shape when I bought it that I just got a whole new bar for it.  So I am not sure if bolts would work as I have not had to replace a section yet.

I still have my portable rivet press and when you use it with an impact wrench(lowest setting) it makes short work of it.  Just takes a little practice not to overdo it.  Overdoing it is hard on the press and malforms the head.

Hope this helps,

Spencer

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 8:49 PM, Aaron Dickinson <a_dickinson at att.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> I haven’t had problems with clearance, except for the very first hold down on one of my mowers (Deere #5, IH #100, Dearborn) don’t remember which one, part of the knife head so I rivet the two sections? that run under that. The cast knife head connection (thicker causing clearance problem) don’t remember would have to look. But for all the rest I use the bolts. I might be able to swap out that first hold down for a high arch one, but its not a big deal to me.
> 
> Aaron Dickinson
> 
> From: John Hall
> Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎July‎ ‎6‎, ‎2020 ‎11‎:‎33‎ ‎AM
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
> 
> I've thought about getting some of those bolts for replacements/repairs. Cousin runs them on grain header--rocky land and soybeans are a bad combo. Will they clear standard "hold downs"?
> 
> John Hall
> 
> On 7/6/2020 10:22 AM, Aaron Dickinson wrote:
> I will still replace sections on a knife, whole replacement knife is nicer, but I don’t rivet them anymore I use section bolts. First used the bolts on combine sections and thought why not mower? The nut sticks up a little more than rivits, but I don’t have any problems mowing my alfalfa/grass hay.
> 
> Aaron Dickinson
> Mason, Michigan
> 
> From: John Hall
> Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎July‎ ‎6‎, ‎2020 ‎7‎:‎42‎ ‎AM
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
> 
> Sickle mowers can be a pain.
> 
> First off keep anything you don't want to cut from the area in between 
> the guards--especially when raising and lowering the blade/working on 
> mower. I always grab by the back of the blade or the heavy cast piece 
> out on the end.
> 
> Second, run the sickle mower for edge/ditch trimming first. They don't 
> like thatch/debris form rotary mowers, tend to bunch up right where the 
> blade bolts on. Also if you head into a field that was previously 
> overgrown and has been bushogged while leaving large clumps, you are 
> going to hate life as the blade will choke up often. Sometimes you can 
> hold the blade up or install a clipping wheel on the end to manage this 
> situation.
> 
> Third, they either are in mowing condition, or not. Unlike a rotary 
> mower with dull blades that you can limp along with, these things tend 
> to be all or nothing. One broke guard or section and it just plain won't 
> work. I have found it cheaper and easier to NOT put new ledger plates in 
> the guards replace the whole assembly. Also when the blade is worn out, 
> I order a new assembly instead of changing all those sections. Lot of 80 
> year old guys will talk about how easy it is to do, but they aren't 
> doing it. Also they are basing it on their memory of doing it in 1975 
> when parts were more pricey, Its not that bad to buy a complete blade 
> sent to your house ready to change out. FWIW, I have one of those tools 
> you brad rivets with, works great if you break a section and want to fix 
> it in the machine.
> 
> Here is where I get my parts from if I have to "overhaul" a cutterbar. 
> Last one I did was a 7' IH two years ago. https://www.cuttingcomponents.com/
> 
> Any kind of grass/weed/vine these things do great in. Small trees much 
> more than a couple feet tall and you risk breaking a section and 
> possibly a guard---or even the blade. Be sure to ask for whatever spare 
> parts the guy has to go with it.
> 
> You should be able to adjust the pitch of the blade, but more than 
> likely its already set up OK. I'd try it first.
> 
> I'm sure you know, but to save some cussing--if one of the guard bolts 
> has to be pulled off and the square doesn't want to stay in the  hole 
> (think plow bolt), don't use your thumb to hold it in!!!
> 
> John Hall
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/6/2020 6:09 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> > I've never run a sickle mower, so there's going to be some fun with 
> > experimentation.  I keep about 3 acres of our 15 mowed; the rest is 
> > forest and wetlands.  I have a zero-turn for the lawn-like areas, and 
> > a DR Brush mower (mini walk-behind bushhog) for the coarse areas.  I'm 
> > told some of this property was cow pasture several decades ago.  The 
> > house was built in 1990, and when we purchased in 2002, the old 
> > pastureland had disappeared under heavy overgrowth of the finest 
> > invasives New England has to offer:  autumn olive & multiflora rose, 
> > that seem to like to grow together in clumps, plus bittersweet, poison 
> > ivy, and wild grape.  We've been slowly clearing bit by bit ever 
> > since, and as soon as a patch of ground is opened up, grasses 
> > magically re-appear.  This is how I end up with 3 acres that now have 
> > to be clipped or the invasives will return.  Nothing is really flat, 
> > but then again we don't have serious slopes either.  Rocks, yes, 
> > multitudes. They're generally of the "tip of the iceberg" variety, 
> > appearing flattish and roundish and only protruding a couple inches.  
> > I know the location intimately of every single one that interferes 
> > with a mower.  I think some of the coarse areas may work for the 
> > sickle.  I suppose the guards will ride up and over those flattish 
> > rocks, seems that is the intent of the design.
> >
> > SO
> >
> >
> 
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