<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">I used to rivet but use the bolts now. </span>I’ve not had a problem with bolts on a NH haybine or an IH mower/conditioner I used to have. My John Deere #5 was in such bad shape when I bought it that I just got a whole new bar for it. So I am not sure if bolts would work as I have not had to replace a section yet.<div><br></div><div>I still have my portable rivet press and when you use it with an impact wrench(lowest setting) it makes short work of it. Just takes a little practice not to overdo it. Overdoing it is hard on the press and malforms the head.</div><div><br></div><div>Hope this helps,</div><div><br></div><div>Spencer<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Jul 6, 2020, at 8:49 PM, Aaron Dickinson <a_dickinson@att.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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<div data-externalstyle="false" dir="ltr" style="font-family: 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo', 'Microsoft YaHei UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic', 'sans-serif';font-size:12pt;"><div>I haven’t had problems with clearance, except for the very first hold down on one of my mowers (Deere #5, IH #100, Dearborn) don’t remember which one, part of the knife head so I rivet the two sections? that run under that. The cast knife head connection (thicker causing clearance problem) don’t remember would have to look. But for all the rest I use the bolts. I might be able to swap out that first hold down for a high arch one, but its not a big deal to me.<br></div><div data-signatureblock="true"><div><br></div><div>Aaron Dickinson</div><div><br></div></div><div style="padding-top: 5px; border-top-color: rgb(229, 229, 229); border-top-width: 1px; border-top-style: solid;"><div><font face=" 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo', 'Microsoft YaHei UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic', 'sans-serif'" style="line-height: 15pt; letter-spacing: 0.02em; font-family: "Calibri", "Segoe UI", "Meiryo", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft JhengHei UI", "Malgun Gothic", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_parent">John Hall</a><br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, July 6, 2020 11:33 AM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_parent">Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group</a></font></div></div><div><br></div><div dir="">
I've thought about getting some of those bolts for
replacements/repairs. Cousin runs them on grain header--rocky land
and soybeans are a bad combo. Will they clear standard "hold downs"?<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/6/2020 10:22 AM, Aaron Dickinson
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;" cite="mid:20200706142743.3FCAF21AF7@pdx1-mailman01.dreamhost.com">
<div>I will still replace sections on a knife, whole replacement
knife is nicer, but I don’t rivet them anymore I use section
bolts. First used the bolts on combine sections and thought
why not mower? The nut sticks up a little more than rivits,
but I don’t have any problems mowing my alfalfa/grass hay.<br>
</div>
<div data-signatureblock="true">
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Aaron Dickinson</div>
<div>Mason, Michigan</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div style="padding-top: 5px; border-top-color: rgb(229, 229, 229); border-top-width: 1px; border-top-style: solid;">
<div><font face=" 'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo', 'Microsoft YaHei UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic', 'sans-serif'" style="line-height: 15pt; letter-spacing: 0.02em; font-family: "Calibri", "Segoe UI", "Meiryo", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft JhengHei UI", "Malgun Gothic", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_parent">John Hall</a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, July 6, 2020 7:42 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_parent">Antique Tractor
Email Discussion Group</a></font></div>
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<div dir="">
<div id="readingPaneBodyContent">Sickle mowers can be a pain.<br>
<br>
First off keep anything you don't want to cut from the area
in between <br>
the guards--especially when raising and lowering the
blade/working on <br>
mower. I always grab by the back of the blade or the heavy
cast piece <br>
out on the end.<br>
<br>
Second, run the sickle mower for edge/ditch trimming first.
They don't <br>
like thatch/debris form rotary mowers, tend to bunch up
right where the <br>
blade bolts on. Also if you head into a field that was
previously <br>
overgrown and has been bushogged while leaving large clumps,
you are <br>
going to hate life as the blade will choke up often.
Sometimes you can <br>
hold the blade up or install a clipping wheel on the end to
manage this <br>
situation.<br>
<br>
Third, they either are in mowing condition, or not. Unlike a
rotary <br>
mower with dull blades that you can limp along with, these
things tend <br>
to be all or nothing. One broke guard or section and it just
plain won't <br>
work. I have found it cheaper and easier to NOT put new
ledger plates in <br>
the guards replace the whole assembly. Also when the blade
is worn out, <br>
I order a new assembly instead of changing all those
sections. Lot of 80 <br>
year old guys will talk about how easy it is to do, but they
aren't <br>
doing it. Also they are basing it on their memory of doing
it in 1975 <br>
when parts were more pricey, Its not that bad to buy a
complete blade <br>
sent to your house ready to change out. FWIW, I have one of
those tools <br>
you brad rivets with, works great if you break a section and
want to fix <br>
it in the machine.<br>
<br>
Here is where I get my parts from if I have to "overhaul" a
cutterbar. <br>
Last one I did was a 7' IH two years ago.
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.cuttingcomponents.com/" target="_parent">https://www.cuttingcomponents.com/</a><br>
<br>
Any kind of grass/weed/vine these things do great in. Small
trees much <br>
more than a couple feet tall and you risk breaking a section
and <br>
possibly a guard---or even the blade. Be sure to ask for
whatever spare <br>
parts the guy has to go with it.<br>
<br>
You should be able to adjust the pitch of the blade, but
more than <br>
likely its already set up OK. I'd try it first.<br>
<br>
I'm sure you know, but to save some cussing--if one of the
guard bolts <br>
has to be pulled off and the square doesn't want to stay in
the hole <br>
(think plow bolt), don't use your thumb to hold it in!!!<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/6/2020 6:09 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:<br>
> I've never run a sickle mower, so there's going to be
some fun with <br>
> experimentation. I keep about 3 acres of our 15 mowed;
the rest is <br>
> forest and wetlands. I have a zero-turn for the
lawn-like areas, and <br>
> a DR Brush mower (mini walk-behind bushhog) for the
coarse areas. I'm <br>
> told some of this property was cow pasture several
decades ago. The <br>
> house was built in 1990, and when we purchased in 2002,
the old <br>
> pastureland had disappeared under heavy overgrowth of
the finest <br>
> invasives New England has to offer: autumn olive &
multiflora rose, <br>
> that seem to like to grow together in clumps, plus
bittersweet, poison <br>
> ivy, and wild grape. We've been slowly clearing bit by
bit ever <br>
> since, and as soon as a patch of ground is opened up,
grasses <br>
> magically re-appear. This is how I end up with 3 acres
that now have <br>
> to be clipped or the invasives will return. Nothing is
really flat, <br>
> but then again we don't have serious slopes either.
Rocks, yes, <br>
> multitudes. They're generally of the "tip of the
iceberg" variety, <br>
> appearing flattish and roundish and only protruding a
couple inches. <br>
> I know the location intimately of every single one that
interferes <br>
> with a mower. I think some of the coarse areas may
work for the <br>
> sickle. I suppose the guards will ride up and over
those flattish <br>
> rocks, seems that is the intent of the design.<br>
><br>
> SO<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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