[AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES
Mark Johnson
markjohnson100 at centurylink.net
Wed Jul 1 04:51:10 PDT 2020
Bill:
You wouldn't happen to have the flywheel weight for the H, perchance? At
a guess I'd place it at around 100 lbs, since an H is slightly smaller
than a B, but I've never seen the figures.
Thanks,
Mark J
"dad" to Little Johnny, H-17616
On 6/30/2020 11:43 PM, Bill Brueck wrote:
>
> Interesting question and comment about flywheel and crankshaft
> weights. And I’ve been wondering about flywheel weights as I have a G
> and a 70 that need to come apart sometime soon. As a younger man I
> would have tackled them, but they’ll be managed with a hoist now. The
> older I get the better I was…
>
> The Deere Master Parts Index, last published about 1970, has the
> weight of many or most parts, I suppose to help in estimating shipping
> cost. An online version of this catalog is available at
> www.b2parts.com <http://www.b2parts.com>. If you use the online parts
> index, note that the user ID and password are contained in the
> explanatory material at the entry page.
>
> Anyway, following are weights for a sampling of 2-cylinder engines. I
> tried to use the later models for the letter series, although the
> entry for some of them was missing the weight information so I
> reverted to an earlier model of the same tractor.
>
> Regarding the crankshaft weight contributing to the inertia, remember
> that the flywheel inertia is a lot more the further the weight is from
> the center. Thus although the crankshaft is substantial in weight,
> it’s close in and doesn’t contribute proportionally to the flywheel
> effect. The D flywheel below isn’t one of the heavier ones but as I
> look at my D the flywheel is substantially larger in diameter than any
> of the others.
>
> Model
>
>
>
> FW
>
>
>
> FW #
>
>
>
> Crank
>
>
>
> Crank #
>
> B
>
>
>
> AB3844R
>
>
>
> 113
>
>
>
> AB2752R
>
>
>
> 60
>
> A
>
>
>
> AA2367R
>
>
>
> 155
>
>
>
> AA3926R
>
>
>
> 89
>
> G
>
>
>
> AF689R
>
>
>
> 181
>
>
>
> AF1314R
>
>
>
> 112
>
> D
>
>
>
> AD852R
>
>
>
> 145
>
>
>
> AD838R
>
>
>
> 185
>
> 50
>
>
>
> AB3844R
>
>
>
> 113
>
>
>
> AB4684R
>
>
>
> 65
>
> 60
>
>
>
> AA4240R
>
>
>
> Missing entry
>
>
>
> AA6009R
>
>
>
> 91
>
> 70
>
>
>
> AF1646R
>
>
>
> 181
>
>
>
> AF1366R
>
>
>
> 133
>
> 70D
>
>
>
> AF2194R
>
>
>
> 185
>
>
>
> AF3748R
>
>
>
> 144
>
> 720
>
>
>
> AF2609R
>
>
>
> 176
>
>
>
> AF2730R
>
>
>
> 160
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> B²
>
> Bill Brueck
>
> Pine Island, MN
>
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Mark Johnson
> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2020 6:58 AM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: Re: [AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES
>
> 110 lbs for a Deere flywheel seems about right. The weight of the
> flywheel is almost independent of the engine size...730 flywheels
> aren't much over 100 lbs either. Apparently as the engines get bigger,
> the extra mass in the crankshaft provides enough moment of inertia to
> keep things running. Does anyone here remember how much the
> crankshafts weight in various larger two-cylinder engines? I know they
> aren't featherweights, given that the rod journals on a 620/630/60/G
> are about 4" in diameter.
>
> My recollection is that one stout feller can take one off, but it took
> two of us to put one on! The only task I can remember that was worse
> was replacing the main reduction gear, which on a 730 is 'interference
> fit'
>
> - you have to heat the gear in hot oil to get it to slide onto the
> crankshaft! It's probably the same on the 620/630 but I didn't happen
> to be around when they (Pop & Grandpa) rebuilt that one. I do have a used
>
> 620 connecting rod in my junk iron collection.
>
> Mark J
>
> Columbia MO
>
> On 6/18/2020 8:44 PM, lcmason at uslink.net <mailto:lcmason at uslink.net>
> wrote:
>
> > I had a JD 520 that had a cracked flywheel. It also made a bad noise.
>
> > It was not hitting anything, just shifting slightly on the shaft, It
>
> > is similar to the noise that would occur if the flywheel was not
>
> > tightened enough. It was quite a few years ago, and the flywheel
>
> > didn't feel too heavy coming off, but the replacement seemed a lot
>
> > heavier once I saw the shipping weight (110 lbs???) Larry Mason
>
> > Hackensack MN
>
> >
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> > From: szabelski at wildblue.net <mailto:szabelski at wildblue.net>
>
> > To: "Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group"
>
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2020 7:27:36 PM
>
> > Subject: Re: [AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES
>
> >
>
> > My bet is that you’re correct and that there is some displacement
> and that nut indicates it is where the most displacement occurs.
> That’s probably why the cracks and why the nut is beat up. Do you know
> what it was hitting against? I’d take a good look and see what it was
> hitting to make sure nothing else is damaged.
>
> >
>
> > Probably explains the clutch burning also.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Carl
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> > From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net
> <mailto:steveallen855 at centurytel.net>>
>
> > To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
> > Sent: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 20:08:07 -0400 (EDT)
>
> > Subject: [AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES
>
> >
>
> > Well, gents, I have another update in the long saga.
>
> >
>
> > Let's begin with the '51 A. I acquired a mesh nozzle to go over the
> inlet of the sediment bowl so that I could pull the lawnmower tank off
> the side (I was afraid of catching it on a tree limb while working)
> until we can pull the tank to clean it right. It is a tall, fine mesh
> that keeps the crud out, and, when we used the tractor, it worked very
> well: plenty of gas, no clogging the inlet. Not the permanent
> solution but a workable one. Tractor did a great job finishing up the
> brush-hogging. I still need to replace the points.
>
> >
>
> > Now, the '49 A. I thought I had bought a set of points for it, but
> I was wrong. I did get a cap, however, and, after cleaning up the old
> points as well as I could and replacing the gap, we had a good spark.
> The old boy cranked up on the third or fourth revolution. Spiffy!
>
> >
>
> > We pulled it out to run it some, and it seemed that there was a
> hammering in the engine. There has always been a sensation of that,
> but it seemed obviously more apparent to me. We did just a little
> work, but it seemed to be getting worse. Also, the clutch was smoking
> when it was disengaged. No slipping, no noise, and it snapped in and
> out just fine, but, when disengaged, it smoked. So we parked it.
> Today, I had my son pull the flywheel cover off today, and we
> discovered the hammering problem (at least I'll bet): Two cracks. If
> the pic comes through, you should be able to see them near the lower,
> right nut. there is obvious displacement of the casting, so I'll bet
> that puppy is loose on there.
>
> >
>
> > So now we need to change the flywheel. Fortunately, I have one. We
> just need to figure out how to handle it (and also to set it in place
> correctly).
>
> >
>
> > Briefly on the '47 B: We need to test the starter and reinstall.
> The generator is probably no good, so we'll just disconnect it. I
> want to put good batt cables on it. We'll probably work on it as we
> prepare to replace the flywheel on the '49.
>
> >
>
> > It's always somethin', ain't it?
>
> >
>
> > The "original" Steve Allen
>
> >
>
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>
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