[AT] Valve Seat Inserts

Tue Dec 1 21:33:17 PST 2020

A valve seat insert is a stellite ring that is put in a machined recess 
in the head so that the head of the valve will seat  on it when it 
closes.  The guides keep the valve centered in the ring as hte valve 
closes.

Cecil

On 12/1/2020 9:51 PM, Dean VP wrote:
>
> Found a term in this company’s price list that rings some memories but 
> really hazy ones.    Could someone explain when and why “Valve Seat 
> Inserts”  are used rather than replacing the whole valve guide?  Yes, 
> they are a little less expensive but not that much  Please refresh my 
> hazy memory from the 50’s.
>
> Dean VP
>
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
> *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Jason
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 1, 2020 11:19 AM
> *To:* Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
> www.handjmachining.com <http://www.handjmachining.com> is a good place 
> for old Deere engine parts.
>
> Just be patient when you call.
>
> Jason
>
> On Tue, Dec 1, 2020, 10:52 AM Dean VP <deanvp at att.net 
> <mailto:deanvp at att.net>> wrote:
>
>     Spencer,
>
>     May have located a place in Phoenix this morning. I asked twice
>     about whether they could do it. No problem, we do all kinds of
>     "weird stuff"  Been in business for 30 years.  The only problem
>     may be finding the parts.  Bring it in, drop off the head and we
>     will get you a quote on what the cost will be.  I'm about 99% sure
>     I don't need new valves. I'm about 99% sure I DO need new valve
>     guides which I have found aftermarket versions.  JD's are 4X's too
>     expensive. Have the replacement manifold studs  on order. Fellow
>     ATIS member Leon Mennenga is running final tests on a replacement
>     used manifold. So maybe things are starting to fall into line.
>
>     PS:  I did finally get a call back from one of the Machine Shops
>     that I called yesterday that had been recommended to me by a local
>     JD Collector.  Yes, we can do it but..... we are out 3 to 4 months
>     right now.   If that is my only source that would essentially
>     cause me to lose another year since I would miss all the shows
>     here this snowbird season.
>
>     Dean VP
>     Apache Junction, AZ
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>     <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>> On Behalf Of
>     Spencer Yost
>     Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2020 8:21 AM
>     To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
>     <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>     Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
>     If you continue to have trouble getting call-backs you may want to
>     consider expanding your search area since shipping just a head
>     would be affordable(albeit not ideal).    Did that with a straight
>     6 Ford head one time when the local shops were all 8-16 weeks
>     behind and I needed it faster.
>
>     Spencer
>
>     Sent from my iPhone
>
>     > On Nov 30, 2020, at 10:17 PM, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net
>     <mailto:deanvp at att.net>> wrote:
>     >
>     > Cecil/Stcve,
>     >
>     > I spent a portion of the day trying to find a machine shop to do
>     the
>     > work on my JD B head. Doing really well..... Not a single
>     > person/company has called back.  Not the way I wanted to start
>     the day.
>     >
>     > Dean VP
>     > Apache Junction, AZ
>     >
>     > -----Original Message-----
>     > From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>     <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>> On Behalf Of Steve W.
>     > Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 8:03 PM
>     > To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
>     > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>     > Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>     >
>     > Cecil Bearden wrote:
>     >> The way those work is there is a reamer/knurlier you run
>     through the
>     >> guide, then  insert the sleeve, then run a burnisher/expander
>     through.
>     >> I have a bit for an air hammer that drives the burnisher.   I
>     first
>     >> started using a hammer.  I get a lot of flak from the
>     "professional
>     >> Engine rebuilders" about these only being 0.030 thick.  A 0.010
>     wear
>     >> on a guide will create a bad seal on a valve, so when the
>     guides are
>     >> worn
>     >> 0.010 or 0.015 they are shot.. Just my $0.02.......  I have had
>     some
>     >> of my small block chevy rebuilds go over 200K miles.  I also have
>     >> used these on old continental engines and they have outlasted
>     the machine
>     >> they were on...   My Dad one time said it was ridiculous for us
>     to buy a
>     >> rebuilt short block when we always had to rebuild them before
>     >> installation or soon after..    I had a replacement engine from
>     Pep Boys
>     >> that had a lifter come apart (350 chevy. ) on the way to
>     Chicago from
>     >> OK.    Pep Boys agreed to give me a new short block. Mainly
>     because I
>     >> had worked with the as't mgr years prior.  I opened up the new
>     >> engine and had to replace the lifters, valves, timing chain and
>     gears, and bore
>     >> the guide and line them.   They reground the lifters, valves, and
>     >> re-used timing chains and gears.  They had installed an oversize
>     >> valve guide after grinding the valve stem. Lifters and valves are
>     >> case
>     > hardened..
>     >>
>     >> This is the reason I will not buy a rebuilt engine..
>     >>
>     >> Cecil
>     >>
>     >
>     > I have a similar setup in the old tools box, one is only the
>     knurlier
>     > set up while the other has the option to do bronze liners.
>     Someplace I
>     > still have a set to do small engines as well, back when you could
>     > still get the parts for them !!
>     > Even have a piston knurlier in there someplace.
>     >
>     > --
>     > Steve W.
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