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<p>A valve seat insert is a stellite ring that is put in a machined
recess in the head so that the head of the valve will seat on it
when it closes. The guides keep the valve centered in the ring as
hte valve closes. <br>
</p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/1/2020 9:51 PM, Dean VP wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Found a term in this company’s price list
that rings some memories but really hazy ones. Could
someone explain when and why “Valve Seat Inserts” are used
rather than replacing the whole valve guide? Yes, they are a
little less expensive but not that much Please refresh my
hazy memory from the 50’s. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Dean VP<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Apache Junction, AZ<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> AT
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com></a> <b>On Behalf
Of </b>Jason<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, December 1, 2020 11:19 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at@lists.antique-tractor.com></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.handjmachining.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">www.handjmachining.com</a> is a
good place for old Deere engine parts.<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Just be patient when you call.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Jason<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue, Dec 1, 2020, 10:52 AM Dean
VP <<a href="mailto:deanvp@att.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">deanvp@att.net</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Spencer,<br>
<br>
May have located a place in Phoenix this morning. I
asked twice about whether they could do it. No
problem, we do all kinds of "weird stuff" Been in
business for 30 years. The only problem may be
finding the parts. Bring it in, drop off the head and
we will get you a quote on what the cost will be.
I'm about 99% sure I don't need new valves. I'm about
99% sure I DO need new valve guides which I have found
aftermarket versions. JD's are 4X's too expensive.
Have the replacement manifold studs on order. Fellow
ATIS member Leon Mennenga is running final tests on a
replacement used manifold. So maybe things are
starting to fall into line.<br>
<br>
PS: I did finally get a call back from one of the
Machine Shops that I called yesterday that had been
recommended to me by a local JD Collector. Yes, we
can do it but..... we are out 3 to 4 months right
now. If that is my only source that would
essentially cause me to lose another year since I
would miss all the shows here this snowbird season. <br>
<br>
Dean VP<br>
Apache Junction, AZ<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: AT <<a
href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>>
On Behalf Of Spencer Yost<br>
Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2020 8:21 AM<br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <<a
href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.<br>
<br>
If you continue to have trouble getting call-backs you
may want to consider expanding your search area since
shipping just a head would be affordable(albeit not
ideal). Did that with a straight 6 Ford head one
time when the local shops were all 8-16 weeks behind
and I needed it faster. <br>
<br>
Spencer<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
> On Nov 30, 2020, at 10:17 PM, Dean VP <<a
href="mailto:deanvp@att.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">deanvp@att.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Cecil/Stcve,<br>
> <br>
> I spent a portion of the day trying to find a
machine shop to do the <br>
> work on my JD B head. Doing really well..... Not
a single <br>
> person/company has called back. Not the way I
wanted to start the day.<br>
> <br>
> Dean VP<br>
> Apache Junction, AZ<br>
> <br>
> -----Original Message-----<br>
> From: AT <<a
href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>>
On Behalf Of Steve W.<br>
> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 8:03 PM<br>
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <br>
> <<a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>><br>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.<br>
> <br>
> Cecil Bearden wrote:<br>
>> The way those work is there is a
reamer/knurlier you run through the <br>
>> guide, then insert the sleeve, then run a
burnisher/expander through.<br>
>> I have a bit for an air hammer that drives
the burnisher. I first <br>
>> started using a hammer. I get a lot of flak
from the "professional <br>
>> Engine rebuilders" about these only being
0.030 thick. A 0.010 wear <br>
>> on a guide will create a bad seal on a valve,
so when the guides are <br>
>> worn<br>
>> 0.010 or 0.015 they are shot.. Just my
$0.02....... I have had some <br>
>> of my small block chevy rebuilds go over 200K
miles. I also have <br>
>> used these on old continental engines and
they have outlasted the machine<br>
>> they were on... My Dad one time said it was
ridiculous for us to buy a <br>
>> rebuilt short block when we always had to
rebuild them before <br>
>> installation or soon after.. I had a
replacement engine from Pep Boys <br>
>> that had a lifter come apart (350 chevy. )
on the way to Chicago from <br>
>> OK. Pep Boys agreed to give me a new short
block. Mainly because I <br>
>> had worked with the as't mgr years prior. I
opened up the new <br>
>> engine and had to replace the lifters,
valves, timing chain and gears, and bore<br>
>> the guide and line them. They reground the
lifters, valves, and <br>
>> re-used timing chains and gears. They had
installed an oversize <br>
>> valve guide after grinding the valve stem.
Lifters and valves are <br>
>> case<br>
> hardened..<br>
>> <br>
>> This is the reason I will not buy a rebuilt
engine..<br>
>> <br>
>> Cecil<br>
>> <br>
> <br>
> I have a similar setup in the old tools box, one
is only the knurlier <br>
> set up while the other has the option to do
bronze liners. Someplace I <br>
> still have a set to do small engines as well,
back when you could <br>
> still get the parts for them !!<br>
> Even have a piston knurlier in there someplace.<br>
> <br>
> --<br>
> Steve W.<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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