[AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Thu Apr 30 20:37:37 PDT 2020 

Back in the old generator days, the Delco regulators had an L terminal.  
In one of my old mechanic manuals,  I found out about the L terminal.  I 
remember this regulator was one of those square Delco regulators.
Cecil

On 4/30/2020 10:29 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> A great question that I’d like to see discussed.
>
> Most (all?) of the ammeters on antique tractors I’ve run across 
> measure the current that the generator is providing, not the current 
> flowing to the battery.  So you see an increase in current as soon as 
> you turn the lights on. It’s true for every tractor I have and can 
> remember having.
>
> I think maybe some cars in the pre-alternator days did it otherwise? I 
> don’t know:   it’s an interesting question.
>
>
> Spencer
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 30, 2020, at 11:04 PM, Ken Knierim <ken.knierim at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Reversing the ammeter will cause the charge/discharge indication to 
>> be correct.
>>
>> However if the charge indicator increases when the lights are on, is 
>> this really correct? Seems like the lights are tapped in on the wrong 
>> side of the ammeter (once you reverse the ammeter connections). I 
>> would guess the light switch (and ignition) should be on the 
>> generator side of the ammeter, not the battery side. This should 
>> allow the generator to make up for the draw from the lights and show 
>> charge/dischage on the battery... or am I mistaken?
>>
>> Ken in AZ
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 7:54 PM <szabelski at wildblue.net 
>> <mailto:szabelski at wildblue.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     You can just switch the wires. All the meter does is indicate
>>     current flow, in both directions. When you’re charging, the
>>     needle moves in one direction, and when you’re drawing power, it
>>     reads in the opposite direction. If you don’t switch the wires,
>>     you’ll have to remember that the meter is indicating the opposite
>>     of what the charging system is actually doing.
>>
>>     Carl
>>
>>
>>     ----- Original Message -----
>>     From: drgerber at bright.net <mailto:drgerber at bright.net>
>>     To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'
>>     <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>>     Sent: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 21:24:49 -0400 (EDT)
>>     Subject: Re: [AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project
>>
>>     I had an MT that wouldn't start.  Cranked but no fire. No juice
>>     at the coil.  Took off the sheet metal, battery, gas tank, and
>>     removed the wiring harness. Wasn't too bad, but had some farmer
>>     engineering.  Had a Chinese made swith, with strange marks, and
>>     nothing like the one shown in the service manual.  Had 2(two)
>>     inline fuses ???  Had a couple of wires with no destination up in
>>     the dash.  I took the wire harness to the bench, and removed all
>>     the crimped bayonet clips, and soldered on the circle clips. 
>>     Tried to figure out the markings on the switch.  Hooked the wires
>>     up by my best guess.  New plugs, new points, new condenser, had
>>     the coil tested and it was good, new wires, new cap, new dust
>>     shield, Napa could not get a rotor so I used the old one.  Put
>>     all but the sheet metal back together.  Fired right up. HOWEVER;
>>     AMP gauge appears to read backwards; slight discharge on
>>     ignition, larger discharge on the ignition w high charge
>>     position, and very strong discharge with lights and high charge
>>     position.
>>
>>     Can I just change the wires to the amp gauge to solve the problem?
>>
>>     Dave Gerber, OH
>>
>>
>>     -----Original Message-----
>>     From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>     <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>> On Behalf Of
>>     Spencer Yost
>>     Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 8:26 PM
>>     To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>     <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>     Subject: [AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project
>>
>>     So I took a break from the motorcycle tonight and moved to the 430.
>>
>>     After I got the engine unstuck a few years ago I did a static
>>     timing of the ignition; but I never did do a running timing.
>>     First of all I had still needed to clean and adjust the carb and
>>     plus I wanted a few hours of running on it before I did a true
>>     running timing on it.
>>
>>     As you can guess, I never got around to it.  (-:
>>
>>     While the static timing  was close I got a sense of misfire at
>>     high idle.  Not a true misfire but not “right” either.
>>
>>     The 430 is an engine that you time at full open throttle, no-load
>>     RPMs.  The service manual provides PTO shaft speeds that
>>     correspond with engine speeds which is helpful because my
>>     tachometer busted probably 15 years ago.   So I opted for the
>>     shaft conversion table.   But my shaft contact tachometer was
>>     borrowed by a friend in the 90s and it disappeared( Not his
>>     fault:  he became quite ill and eventually passed and I didn’t
>>     have the heart to bother him or his widow for it or several other
>>     tools).  So I bought an optical tachometer from Harbor Freight
>>     several months back for this task.
>>
>>     I put a piece of reflective tape that came with the optical
>>     tachometer on the PTO shaft and used that table in the manual to
>>     double check idle and full throttle, no load RPMs.  The optical
>>     tachometer did fine, but as the reviews of the product indicate
>>     you do want the area to be fairly dark, and you want to be
>>     holding it exactly perpendicular to the axis of the shaft.  It
>>     also helps to brace your arm while your hold it.
>>
>>     For reasons I do not remember, I had to adjust the governor shaft
>>     when I was done unsticking the engine and preparing it for test
>>     runs. So my high idle RPM was actually dead on. But it definitely
>>     took some futzing with the carburetor to get my idle speed right.
>>
>>     I needed to do a good bit of adjustment of the distributor to get
>>     the timing mark to come up.   I would say a 5 to 10° turn. It now
>>     idles without “loping” and runs at full throttle without a hint
>>     of that misfire sound.
>>
>>     A good day.
>>
>>     Spencer
>>
>>     Sent from my iPhone
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