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    <p>Back in the old generator days, the Delco regulators had an L
      terminal.  In one of my old mechanic manuals,  I found out about
      the L terminal.  I remember this regulator was one of those square
      Delco regulators.  <br>
      Cecil<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/30/2020 10:29 PM, Spencer Yost
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:1D6F8E1B-448C-4D3B-8C50-CE7C5B7748E4@rdfarms.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div>A great question that I’d like to see discussed.</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Most (all?) of the ammeters on antique tractors I’ve run
        across measure the current that the generator is providing, not
        the current flowing to the battery.  So you see an increase in
        current as soon as you turn the lights on. It’s true for every
        tractor I have and can remember having.</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>I think maybe some cars in the pre-alternator days did it
        otherwise? I don’t know:   it’s an interesting question.</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Spencer</div>
      <div><br>
        <div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
        <div dir="ltr"><br>
          <blockquote type="cite">On Apr 30, 2020, at 11:04 PM, Ken
            Knierim <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:ken.knierim@gmail.com"><ken.knierim@gmail.com></a> wrote:<br>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
        </div>
        <blockquote type="cite">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div dir="ltr">Reversing the ammeter will cause the
              charge/discharge indication to be correct. 
              <div><br>
              </div>
              <div>However if the charge indicator increases when the
                lights are on, is this really correct? Seems like the
                lights are tapped in on the wrong side of the ammeter
                (once you reverse the ammeter connections). I would
                guess the light switch (and ignition) should be on the
                generator side of the ammeter, not the battery side.
                This should allow the generator to make up for the draw
                from the lights and show charge/dischage on the
                battery... or am I mistaken?</div>
              <div><br>
              </div>
              <div>Ken in AZ</div>
            </div>
            <br>
            <div class="gmail_quote">
              <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at
                7:54 PM <<a href="mailto:szabelski@wildblue.net"
                  moz-do-not-send="true">szabelski@wildblue.net</a>>
                wrote:<br>
              </div>
              <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
                0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
                rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">You can just switch
                the wires. All the meter does is indicate current flow,
                in both directions. When you’re charging, the needle
                moves in one direction, and when you’re drawing power,
                it reads in the opposite direction. If you don’t switch
                the wires, you’ll have to remember that the meter is
                indicating the opposite of what the charging system is
                actually doing.<br>
                <br>
                Carl<br>
                <br>
                <br>
                ----- Original Message -----<br>
                From: <a href="mailto:drgerber@bright.net"
                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">drgerber@bright.net</a><br>
                To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <<a
                  href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>><br>
                Sent: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 21:24:49 -0400 (EDT)<br>
                Subject: Re: [AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project<br>
                <br>
                I had an MT that wouldn't start.  Cranked but no fire. 
                No juice at the coil.  Took off the sheet metal,
                battery, gas tank, and removed the wiring harness. 
                Wasn't too bad, but had some farmer engineering.  Had a
                Chinese made swith, with strange marks, and nothing like
                the one shown in the service manual.  Had 2(two) inline
                fuses ???  Had a couple of wires with no destination up
                in the dash.  I took the wire harness to the bench, and
                removed all the crimped bayonet clips, and soldered on
                the circle clips.  Tried to figure out the markings on
                the switch.  Hooked the wires up by my best guess.  New
                plugs, new points, new condenser, had the coil tested
                and it was good, new wires, new cap, new dust shield,
                Napa could not get a rotor so I used the old one.  Put
                all but the sheet metal back together.  Fired right up. 
                HOWEVER; AMP gauge appears to read backwards; slight
                discharge on ignition, larger discharge on the ignition
                w high charge position, and very strong discharge with
                lights and high charge position.  <br>
                <br>
                Can I just change the wires to the amp gauge to solve
                the problem?<br>
                <br>
                Dave Gerber, OH <br>
                <br>
                <br>
                -----Original Message-----<br>
                From: AT <<a
                  href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"
                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>>
                On Behalf Of Spencer Yost<br>
                Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 8:26 PM<br>
                To: <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
                Subject: [AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project<br>
                <br>
                So I took a break from the motorcycle tonight and moved
                to the 430.  <br>
                <br>
                After I got the engine unstuck a few years ago I did a
                static timing of the ignition; but I never did do a
                running timing. First of all I had still needed to clean
                and adjust the carb and plus I wanted a few hours of
                running on it before I did a true running timing on it.<br>
                <br>
                As you can guess, I never got around to it.  (-:<br>
                <br>
                While the static timing  was close I got a sense of
                misfire at high idle.  Not a true misfire but not
                “right” either.<br>
                <br>
                The 430 is an engine that you time at full open
                throttle, no-load RPMs.  The service manual provides PTO
                shaft speeds that correspond with engine speeds which is
                helpful because my tachometer busted probably 15 years
                ago.   So I opted for the shaft conversion table.   But
                my shaft contact tachometer was borrowed by a friend in
                the 90s and it disappeared( Not his fault:  he became
                quite ill and eventually passed and I didn’t have the
                heart to bother him or his widow for it or several other
                tools).  So I bought an optical tachometer from Harbor
                Freight several months back for this task.<br>
                <br>
                I put a piece of reflective tape that came with the
                optical tachometer on the PTO shaft and used that table
                in the manual to double check idle and full throttle, no
                load RPMs.  The optical tachometer did fine, but as the
                reviews of the product indicate you do want the area to
                be fairly dark, and you want to be holding it exactly
                perpendicular to the axis of the shaft.  It also helps
                to brace your arm while your hold it.<br>
                <br>
                For reasons I do not remember, I had to adjust the
                governor shaft when I was done unsticking the engine and
                preparing it for test runs. So my high idle RPM was
                actually dead on. But it definitely took some futzing
                with the carburetor to get my idle speed right. <br>
                <br>
                I needed to do a good bit of adjustment of the
                distributor to get the timing mark to come up.   I would
                say a 5 to 10° turn. It now idles without “loping” and
                runs at full throttle without a hint of that misfire
                sound.<br>
                <br>
                A good day.<br>
                <br>
                Spencer<br>
                <br>
                Sent from my iPhone<br>
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              </blockquote>
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        </blockquote>
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________
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