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<p>Back in the old generator days, the Delco regulators had an L
terminal. In one of my old mechanic manuals, I found out about
the L terminal. I remember this regulator was one of those square
Delco regulators. <br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/30/2020 10:29 PM, Spencer Yost
wrote:<br>
</div>
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cite="mid:1D6F8E1B-448C-4D3B-8C50-CE7C5B7748E4@rdfarms.com">
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<div>A great question that I’d like to see discussed.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Most (all?) of the ammeters on antique tractors I’ve run
across measure the current that the generator is providing, not
the current flowing to the battery. So you see an increase in
current as soon as you turn the lights on. It’s true for every
tractor I have and can remember having.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I think maybe some cars in the pre-alternator days did it
otherwise? I don’t know: it’s an interesting question.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Spencer</div>
<div><br>
<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On Apr 30, 2020, at 11:04 PM, Ken
Knierim <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:ken.knierim@gmail.com"><ken.knierim@gmail.com></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">Reversing the ammeter will cause the
charge/discharge indication to be correct.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>However if the charge indicator increases when the
lights are on, is this really correct? Seems like the
lights are tapped in on the wrong side of the ammeter
(once you reverse the ammeter connections). I would
guess the light switch (and ignition) should be on the
generator side of the ammeter, not the battery side.
This should allow the generator to make up for the draw
from the lights and show charge/dischage on the
battery... or am I mistaken?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Ken in AZ</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at
7:54 PM <<a href="mailto:szabelski@wildblue.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">szabelski@wildblue.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">You can just switch
the wires. All the meter does is indicate current flow,
in both directions. When you’re charging, the needle
moves in one direction, and when you’re drawing power,
it reads in the opposite direction. If you don’t switch
the wires, you’ll have to remember that the meter is
indicating the opposite of what the charging system is
actually doing.<br>
<br>
Carl<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: <a href="mailto:drgerber@bright.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">drgerber@bright.net</a><br>
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <<a
href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>><br>
Sent: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 21:24:49 -0400 (EDT)<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project<br>
<br>
I had an MT that wouldn't start. Cranked but no fire.
No juice at the coil. Took off the sheet metal,
battery, gas tank, and removed the wiring harness.
Wasn't too bad, but had some farmer engineering. Had a
Chinese made swith, with strange marks, and nothing like
the one shown in the service manual. Had 2(two) inline
fuses ??? Had a couple of wires with no destination up
in the dash. I took the wire harness to the bench, and
removed all the crimped bayonet clips, and soldered on
the circle clips. Tried to figure out the markings on
the switch. Hooked the wires up by my best guess. New
plugs, new points, new condenser, had the coil tested
and it was good, new wires, new cap, new dust shield,
Napa could not get a rotor so I used the old one. Put
all but the sheet metal back together. Fired right up.
HOWEVER; AMP gauge appears to read backwards; slight
discharge on ignition, larger discharge on the ignition
w high charge position, and very strong discharge with
lights and high charge position. <br>
<br>
Can I just change the wires to the amp gauge to solve
the problem?<br>
<br>
Dave Gerber, OH <br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: AT <<a
href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>>
On Behalf Of Spencer Yost<br>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 8:26 PM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
Subject: [AT] Covid-19 Quarantine tractor project<br>
<br>
So I took a break from the motorcycle tonight and moved
to the 430. <br>
<br>
After I got the engine unstuck a few years ago I did a
static timing of the ignition; but I never did do a
running timing. First of all I had still needed to clean
and adjust the carb and plus I wanted a few hours of
running on it before I did a true running timing on it.<br>
<br>
As you can guess, I never got around to it. (-:<br>
<br>
While the static timing was close I got a sense of
misfire at high idle. Not a true misfire but not
“right” either.<br>
<br>
The 430 is an engine that you time at full open
throttle, no-load RPMs. The service manual provides PTO
shaft speeds that correspond with engine speeds which is
helpful because my tachometer busted probably 15 years
ago. So I opted for the shaft conversion table. But
my shaft contact tachometer was borrowed by a friend in
the 90s and it disappeared( Not his fault: he became
quite ill and eventually passed and I didn’t have the
heart to bother him or his widow for it or several other
tools). So I bought an optical tachometer from Harbor
Freight several months back for this task.<br>
<br>
I put a piece of reflective tape that came with the
optical tachometer on the PTO shaft and used that table
in the manual to double check idle and full throttle, no
load RPMs. The optical tachometer did fine, but as the
reviews of the product indicate you do want the area to
be fairly dark, and you want to be holding it exactly
perpendicular to the axis of the shaft. It also helps
to brace your arm while your hold it.<br>
<br>
For reasons I do not remember, I had to adjust the
governor shaft when I was done unsticking the engine and
preparing it for test runs. So my high idle RPM was
actually dead on. But it definitely took some futzing
with the carburetor to get my idle speed right. <br>
<br>
I needed to do a good bit of adjustment of the
distributor to get the timing mark to come up. I would
say a 5 to 10° turn. It now idles without “loping” and
runs at full throttle without a hint of that misfire
sound.<br>
<br>
A good day.<br>
<br>
Spencer<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
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