[AT] Drill bits for drilling our old tractor steel and iron.

[Spencer Yost]

I’ll defer to others, but I just use quality high speed bits, use them carefully, slowly, well oiled and kept as sharp as I can manage with a high end “Drill Doctor”.

I use Cobalt also for the really tough stuff.

If you don’t need to be very precise and just need to get a hole in the something that is very very hard, masonry bits actually work quite well.   They have to be new or resharpened.  But like I said I find the holes are not as precise.   So don’t make pacemakers, aircraft or nuclear parts with them. People laugh at this until they follow my advice and try it. And then they come back and thank me.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2019, at 3:06 AM, deanvp at att.net wrote:
> 
> 
> The closest drill bits I have that I would call decent are a set of reverse direction drill bits made by Irwin that are Cobalt.  I’ve used them for removing broken off bolts, etc. but even those are not worth writing home about.  On grade 5 bolts they are ok but on really hard stuff they don’t cut the mustard. Cobalt drill bits do have a negative and that is they are very brittle. But…  what brand and version of drill bits have you guys found that are better than the average bear and work good on our old iron which seems harder than the current stuff. I’m fed up with my multiple indexes of drill bits that might work in wood if I was patient. On steel a nail might work better. :-) I know its going to cost and I’m prepared for that. What is the “Snap-On” of drill bits?  What have you had a long and successful relationship with.  However, I am convinced that no matter how good they are I will break anything less than 1/8”  So a set from 1/8 to ½” in 1/64th “  increments is about my style. Or as an alternative. What drill bit sharpener do you recommend? I do have a lot of drill bits that could be sharpened. Not sure some of them are worth it though.
>  
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA 98290
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