[AT] OT: Cast iron work on a replica cannon

bloomis at charter.net bloomis at charter.net
Fri May 3 12:17:30 PDT 2019


This has been an interesting thread, pun intended. At the winery 90% of the equipment is European so metric from 4mm to 150mm. Like SO I’m used to it and have the tools to match. As to KeenSerts and damn near anything else, for those that don’t know, McMaster.com has them and then some. https://www.mcmaster.com/key-locking-threaded-inserts 

About the only thing they didn’t have, that I had to search and special order, tho it was actually in stock was like a 16MM fine thread left hand tap. Some Jobber on the East Coast had one. Had to chase some buggered threads on a Maselli grape sampler auger. The bottom bushing was held in by that size. 

Bradford

 

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Spencer Yost
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 10:53 AM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] OT: Cast iron work on a replica cannon

 

I was thinking of metric oil pan drain plug repair kits which are 15mm.  As you mention it is not standard size so the bolt would have to be special/internet ordered I suspect 

Spencer Yost


On May 3, 2019, at 10:43 AM, Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com> > wrote:

I live and work in both worlds, and I have no problems with metric other than the need to have two whole sets of wrenches and sockets, but that was also true 40+ years ago when I started collecting, so I'm good.  I'm not a big fan of the idea to convert the whole USA to metric.  While that was tried and failed back in the '80's, it still rears its ugly head now and again.  

 

Anyway, back to the cannon and Spencer's comment.  Before I responded to Steve Allen the first time, I checked metric.  Standard sizes at 14mm and 16mm.  Coarse is M14 x 2.  Major diameter is 0.551" which is slightly smaller than the 9/16-12 he was considering.  M14x2 tap drill is 12mm which is 0.472" which is too small to be much good if trying to clean up a stripped 1/2-13.  So we move to the 16mm.  Here, the trouble is that 16mm is 0.630" which is just a hair above 5/8" and Mr Allen already stated that he could not go as far as 5/8" due to something interfering (or whatever it was, I forget).

 

SO

 

 

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 10:26 AM Al Jones <farmallsupera1 at gmail.com <mailto:farmallsupera1 at gmail.com> > wrote:

Metric is the work of the devil...…..

 

Helicoils are wonderful.  Very easy to do and they WORK!

 

My white demonstrator Super A that I have been tinkering off and on forever had four badly stripped holes in the torque tube.  Somebody had tapped the 5/8" holes out about 7/8 or so and it was BAD.  There wasn't any threaded inserts that I could find that would be direct replacements.  A machine shop friend of mine was nice enough to make a set of inserts, kind of like the KeenSerts, and install in the torque tube.  Once it's painted I don't think you'll be able to tell that anything ever happened to it!

Al

 

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:19 AM Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com <mailto:swilliams268 at frontier.com> > wrote:

Spencer Yost wrote:
> Helicoil as others suggested.   Metric bolts give you more options 
> diameter wise, but a metric bolt on an antique canon would probably 
> cause the universe to implode. (-;
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> Spencer Yost
> On May 1, 2019, at 12:00 PM, Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com>  
> <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com> >> wrote:
> 

I would opt for a KeenSert myself. Those are a solid insert that keys 
into place. A helicoil would likely work but the solid insert would be a 
better option as far as sealing the exterior.

-- 
Steve W.
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