[AT] List quiet!! Everyone OK, or just waterlogged??? --> Lug bolts, JD A

[deanvp at att.net]

Good info, but there is a theory, I think proven, that if you really heat a bolt up to near melting point and then let cool is will end up a slightly smaller diameter. This concept is similar to taking dents out of metal by multiple heating and cooling cycles. Downside is you end up with brittle metal.  But it is hard to heat the bolt w/o also heating the surrounding area. However multiple, deep and long heating and cooling cycles will produce results if you have the patience.  I agree that attempting to turn the bolt should only occur at the two extreme temperature points. When the casting is really hot or when the bolt is really cold. This is why some people use liquid nitrogen on bolts to try to free them up. Heat = expands. Cold = contracts. Multiple heating and cooling cycles will produce results.  This part I have had good results with on several frozen assemblies as well such as top links or three point lift links. Heating the barrel not the shaft and twisting while hot.  Two or three heat and cool cycles usually does the trick. 

  What I didn't think I knew how to describe on here was how to use and set up an acetylene torch itself.

Dean VP
Snohomish, WA 98290

-----Original Message-----
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of szabelski at wildblue.net
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2019 6:11 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] List quiet!! Everyone OK, or just waterlogged??? --> Lug bolts, JD A

When applying heat you want to heat the item the bolt in threaded into, not the bolt. When you apply heat to the item the bolt is threaded into, the threaded hole diameter increases, giving you a loser fit. Applying heat to the bolt causes the bolt diameter to expand, causing a tighter fit. Some people think that this will crush the rust and help get the bolt to turn. All you’re doing is maybe breaking down some of the bigger pieces into slightly smaller pieces that will bind up even more. When the bolt starts to turn, work it back and forth just as if you were tapping a hole, this will help some of the rust to work its way out a little at a time. 

The part you heated will eventually start to cool and the bolt will bind again. Just keep heating the part as many tiles as necessary until the bolt keeps turning with little effort.

Don’t squirt any penetrant or oil unto the bolt, it will only help to cool the part you heated to start with.

If you’re using a torque wrench set it to the highest setting (more hits per minute, not more torque). Run it back and forth and you may notice the bolt turning a little more each time. Sometimes it’s better to use a breaker bar. You can get a more constant and greater torque. Just don’t put an extension on the breaker bar because you can easily snap the bolt head off.

Once you get everything out, take a good look at all the threads, internal and external. There may not be any decent threads left and things will never stay tight no matter how tight you make them, or they may just strip out.

Good luck.

----- Original Message -----
From: Brian VanDragt <bvandragt at comcast.net>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Mon, 01 Jul 2019 16:22:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [AT] List quiet!! Everyone OK, or just waterlogged??? --> Lug bolts, JD A

Remind us what you are trying to do again.  Are you taking the rims off the centers, or the hubs off the axle?  Heat whatever you want to expand.  Don't heat too long or everything will get to the same temperature, then you are back where you started.  If it doesn't come apart right away, the same thing will happen, the heat will soak into the parts you didn't want to expand.  If that happens, let it all cool off and try again later.

Brian


> On July 1, 2019 at 3:22 PM STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> OK, per Dean's advice, I have gotten my hands on an acetylene torch, but I don't have any experience with one to speak of.
> 
> I would appreciate any hints anyone can offer about technique for getting the bolts out.  I have watched a couple YouTube videos, but they are focused on cutting, and cutting is what I *don't* want to do ;-)
> 
> Thanks for any pointers you might offer!
> 
> The "original" Steve Allen
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2019 15:17:21 -0700
> From: deanvp <deanvp at att.net>
> To: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>,
> 	
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: Re: [AT] List quiet!! Everyone OK, or just waterlogged???
> Message-ID: <6052xsn7b6qjgckpm2wfbppb.1561328045913 at email.android.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The only real reliable solution is to use an acetylene torch(gas axe). That is the only way to get enough heat to handle on the mass of the cast iron. An alternative would be to slide the whole wheel assembly off the axle and take the whole assembly somewhere where there is adequate heat and air pressure.
> 
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