[AT] 4020 troubles

[Spencer Yost]

I have had 3 semi-modern auto engines with very minor coolant leaks and weeps (granted, not in the engine) that resolved themselves once they were pulled out of storage and used regularly.   Maybe just a little too much down time for the tractor this winter?

I'd take it on some joy rides or light chores every other day for a few weeks and see what happens.  Loosen the drain bolt a tad the next morning after each joy ride and see what comes out.  The worst thing that could happen is hastening the failure mode on a joyride, instead of in the middle of the field during spring planting.  I'd like to know now rather than later...  


Ps. The latest example was a 1997 Isuzu trooper that was put in storage for three years while my son was in Hawaii.  Nice puddle of coolant under it when we pulled it out.  For about a month he needed to top off coolant.   That was 8 years and 70000+ miles ago.  We sold it to a friend last year.   I just saw it this past weekend, running great. 

Spencer Yost



Spencer Yost
> On Mar 12, 2018, at 9:55 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> 
> I would suspect the head.  I have had a lot of heads crack through the exhaust  valve seat.  You can try draining it and them running K&W Metallic Seal through it.  I have also used Water glass, ( Sodium Silicate solution).  Used to get it at the drug store.  Water Glass works only with water, so you have to run straight water with it, then when it seals drain the water out and replace with anti freeze.   If you have very mineralized water and don't run distilled water with you anti freeze, you could have a hot spot in the cylinder that happens when the minerals precipitate out of the coolant and stick to the sleeves.   I have not seen it, but have been warned about it in nearly every late model European engine operators manual..  So, I always use distilled water to top off or for new coolant.  I think Summit racing has a test kit that will detect exhaust in the coolant when the engine is hot.   It is not very expensive.  
> Cecil in Okla
> 
> 
>> On 3/12/2018 7:20 PM, Barney Van De Weert wrote:
>> If you run it, do you get bubbles in the radiator? Weep holes should be pretty prominent in the block at the base of the sleeve an inch or so above the bottom of it centered on the sleeve. I'd check everything out before tearing into it- I saw a so called Mechanic take a head off a 4520 because of the same thing and the problem was the oil cooler. I remember the weep holes more on 4010's at 79-80 they may have quit putting them in- Get a leak detector, pre-lubracator and pressurize the oil system and see what happens. 
>> 
>> Barney Van De Weert
>> 
>> 
>> On Monday, March 12, 2018, 6:31:58 PM CDT, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Haven't seen anything from ATIS in days. So here is a little something 
>> for you guys to ponder. Spring is upon us and needed to get the 4020 
>> Deere diesel serviced. I pulled the drain plug slowly and noticed 
>> antifreeze coming out instead of oil. I caught about 4-6 oz of 
>> antifreeze before it switched over to all oil. Pulled the pan and 
>> pressurized the coolant system. Number 6 has oil coming between the 
>> piston and sleeve--out side of sleeve looks dry (makes me think the 
>> orings on sleeves are OK). I have not had the engine hot and antifreeze 
>> is adequate, so I have no reason to suspect a crack. I really don't have 
>> time to do an in frame rebuild right now, just considering a head gasket 
>> replacement--should face head as soon as I can find someone who can. 
>> Supposedly this engine has weep holes in the side of the block, but I 
>> haven't found them.  the block is a replacement from 79 or the very 
>> early 80's. I am not ruling out a in-fram rebuild, would just like to 
>> wait until next winter if I can.
>> 
>> Your thoughts?
>> 
>> John Hall
>> 
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