<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div><span></span></div><div><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><div>I have had 3 semi-modern auto engines with very minor coolant leaks and weeps (granted, not in the engine) that resolved themselves once they were pulled out of storage and used regularly. Maybe just a little too much down time for the tractor this winter?</div><div><br></div><div>I'd take it on some joy rides or light chores every other day for a few weeks and see what happens. Loosen the drain bolt a tad the next morning after each joy ride and see what comes out. The worst thing that could happen is hastening the failure mode on a joyride, instead of in the middle of the field during spring planting. I'd like to know now rather than later... </div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Ps. The latest example was a 1997 Isuzu trooper that was put in storage for three years while my son was in Hawaii. Nice puddle of coolant under it when we pulled it out. For about a month he needed to top off coolant. That was 8 years and 70000+ miles ago. We sold it to a friend last year. I just saw it this past weekend, running great. </div><div><br>Spencer Yost</div><div><br><div><br><br>Spencer Yost</div>On Mar 12, 2018, at 9:55 PM, Cecil Bearden <<a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net">crbearden@copper.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<p>I would suspect the head. I have had a lot of heads crack
through the exhaust valve seat. You can try draining it and them
running K&W Metallic Seal through it. I have also used Water
glass, ( Sodium Silicate solution). Used to get it at the drug
store. Water Glass works only with water, so you have to run
straight water with it, then when it seals drain the water out and
replace with anti freeze. If you have very mineralized water and
don't run distilled water with you anti freeze, you could have a
hot spot in the cylinder that happens when the minerals
precipitate out of the coolant and stick to the sleeves. I have
not seen it, but have been warned about it in nearly every late
model European engine operators manual.. So, I always use
distilled water to top off or for new coolant. I think Summit
racing has a test kit that will detect exhaust in the coolant when
the engine is hot. It is not very expensive. <br>
</p>
Cecil in Okla<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/12/2018 7:20 PM, Barney Van De
Weert wrote:<br>
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<div>If you run it, do you get bubbles in the radiator? Weep
holes should be pretty prominent in the block at the base of
the sleeve an inch or so above the bottom of it centered on
the sleeve. I'd check everything out before tearing into it-
I saw a so called Mechanic take a head off a 4520 because of
the same thing and the problem was the oil cooler. I
remember the weep holes more on 4010's at 79-80 they may
have quit putting them in- Get a leak detector,
pre-lubracator and pressurize the oil system and see what
happens. </div>
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<div class="ydp317e4a1fsignature">
<div>Barney Van De Weert<var id="ydp317e4a1fyui-ie-cursor"></var></div>
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<div> On Monday, March 12, 2018, 6:31:58 PM CDT, John Hall
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"><jtchall@nc.rr.com></a> wrote: </div>
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<div><br>
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<div>
<div dir="ltr">Haven't seen anything from ATIS in days. So
here is a little something <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">for you guys to ponder. Spring is upon us
and needed to get the 4020 <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">Deere diesel serviced. I pulled the drain
plug slowly and noticed <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">antifreeze coming out instead of oil. I
caught about 4-6 oz of <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">antifreeze before it switched over to all
oil. Pulled the pan and <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">pressurized the coolant system. Number 6
has oil coming between the <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">piston and sleeve--out side of sleeve looks
dry (makes me think the <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">orings on sleeves are OK). I have not had
the engine hot and antifreeze <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">is adequate, so I have no reason to suspect
a crack. I really don't have <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">time to do an in frame rebuild right now,
just considering a head gasket <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">replacement--should face head as soon as I
can find someone who can. <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">Supposedly this engine has weep holes in
the side of the block, but I <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">haven't found them. the block is a
replacement from 79 or the very <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">early 80's. I am not ruling out a in-fram
rebuild, would just like to <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">wait until next winter if I can.<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">Your thoughts?<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">John Hall<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
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