[AT] 430V

[Cecil Bearden]

It seems that my posts are not getting to the group.


On 9/4/2017 7:58 AM, John Hall wrote:
> Greg, we have freed up a few stuck valves without pulling the head. As
> long as its minor flash rust/dried oil then you can. What we do is to
> remove or roll engine until rocker arm is out of the way. Spray brake
> cleaner to remove dried oil from the stem, then spray you favorite
> penetrating oil. Lightly tap the valve stem with a small hammer. Once it
> moves a 1/16 or so, grab the stem with some vise grips or something to
> twist it. Keep working back and forth and a lot of the time the valve
> spring will push the valve back at you. Couple things to remember, don't
> drive it so far in that the piston will hit it if you roll the engine
> over. Assuming it does free up, make sure it is not sluggish or you
> could cause a push rod to jump out of place. From my experience with
> this if it isn't freed up in just a few minutes, you'll need to remove
> the valve to properly clean things. Be sure to clean off any burrs on
> the stem created by the vise grips before you get down to the guide.
>
> John Hall
>
>
> On 9/4/2017 1:57 AM, Greg Hass wrote:
>> My vote is to remove the head for several reasons: 1) I'm not the one
>> doing the work; 2) I'm not paying the bill, although I don't think the
>> cost would be very high; 3) it would make it a lot easier to find out
>> whats going on; 4) and the most important on my list, if I remember
>> correctly ( my CRS has been getting worse as time goes on) it was
>> mentioned that one valve would not hold pressure. If this is the case,
>> it would appear to me the head would have to be pulled at some point to
>> fix the leaking valve. If I am wrong, everything I have said goes out
>> the window. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but trying to help fix the
>> problem from afar.
>>               Greg Hass
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