[AT] 430V

[John Hall]

Greg, we have freed up a few stuck valves without pulling the head. As 
long as its minor flash rust/dried oil then you can. What we do is to 
remove or roll engine until rocker arm is out of the way. Spray brake 
cleaner to remove dried oil from the stem, then spray you favorite 
penetrating oil. Lightly tap the valve stem with a small hammer. Once it 
moves a 1/16 or so, grab the stem with some vise grips or something to 
twist it. Keep working back and forth and a lot of the time the valve 
spring will push the valve back at you. Couple things to remember, don't 
drive it so far in that the piston will hit it if you roll the engine 
over. Assuming it does free up, make sure it is not sluggish or you 
could cause a push rod to jump out of place. From my experience with 
this if it isn't freed up in just a few minutes, you'll need to remove 
the valve to properly clean things. Be sure to clean off any burrs on 
the stem created by the vise grips before you get down to the guide.

John Hall


On 9/4/2017 1:57 AM, Greg Hass wrote:
> My vote is to remove the head for several reasons: 1) I'm not the one
> doing the work; 2) I'm not paying the bill, although I don't think the
> cost would be very high; 3) it would make it a lot easier to find out
> whats going on; 4) and the most important on my list, if I remember
> correctly ( my CRS has been getting worse as time goes on) it was
> mentioned that one valve would not hold pressure. If this is the case,
> it would appear to me the head would have to be pulled at some point to
> fix the leaking valve. If I am wrong, everything I have said goes out
> the window. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but trying to help fix the
> problem from afar.
>              Greg Hass
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