[AT] Off Topic. Need help with Dodge caravan computer maybe?

Phil Auten pga2 at basicisp.net
Fri May 19 09:33:53 PDT 2017


Hope the hail misses you, Cecil!


Phil in TX


On 5/19/2017 10:48 AM, Cecil Bearden wrote:
> Will Check.   Under storm conditions here right now with tennis ball
> hail and tornado threat.
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
> On 5/19/2017 9:41 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
>> All is controlled by the ASD. Can you feel the relay click if someone
>> else turns the key on? Make sure you have constant power to one leg of
>> the relay. Usually the schematic will be on the relay itself. Doug T
>>
>> On 5/19/2017 8:38 AM, Cecil Bearden wrote:
>>> I swapped the relays with the ASD relay yesterday.   Since the plugs are
>>> dry, I think both fuel and spark are shut down.
>>>
>>> Cecil
>>>
>>>
>>> On 5/19/2017 7:16 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
>>>> Cecil, There is a relay in the underhood box called an auto shutdown
>>>> relay. It controls voltage to the ignition coil among a bunch of other
>>>> circuits. you could check for voltage at the coil or just swap the relay
>>>> with another similar one from the box and try it first. Doug T
>>>>
>>>> On 5/19/2017 8:03 AM, Cecil Bearden wrote:
>>>>> St eve:
>>>>> Thanks I will try it.  My thoughts are that the charging syst em
>>>>> grounded through a sensor.
>>>>>
>>>>> Cecil
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 5/18/2017 10:56 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>>>>> Cecil Bearden wrote:
>>>>>>> I know a lot of you guys have more experience with the computer systems
>>>>>>> than I have.  I have suffered through Youtube videos of nearly every
>>>>>>> self described ëxpert"in diagnosing a no start condition.  Here's the
>>>>>>> timeline of what has been replaced and what happened.  Wife's 2003 Grand
>>>>>>> Caravan w/ 3.8L V6 130000 miles.  Sat Morning, alternator making loud
>>>>>>> whine heard 40 yds away.  Alternator would burn your fingers after
>>>>>>> running only 4 minutes.  Dropped Alternator and found noisy water pump
>>>>>>> also leaking when inspecting other pulleys.  Replaced alternator and
>>>>>>> water pump after bolt broke off on water pump.  Drilled it out Sat night
>>>>>>> with cordless screwdriver and hex chuck style bits.  Had partial threads
>>>>>>> so used a longer bolt and put a nut on back side.   Got it back together
>>>>>>> on Sunday and had to wait until Mon morning to get some Christmas tree
>>>>>>> fasteners to hold the belt shield.  Tuesday my wife drove it nearly 150
>>>>>>> miles in OKC and made at least 15 stops running errands with no
>>>>>>> problems.  Arrived at front gate and engine died.  Would not start when
>>>>>>> cranking.  It is possible she stopped and backed up when it died, ( just
>>>>>>> info for later )  but I cannot confirm.  Found battery ground cable
>>>>>>> loose after engine would not crank.  Tightened cable and cranked
>>>>>>> engine.  After several tries the starter would just spin and not engage
>>>>>>> the flywheel.   Wednesday got reman starter and spent 3 hours removing
>>>>>>> the old one.  I installed the new starter this morning, and it would
>>>>>>> crank but not start.  The new starter really grinds, sounds like it is
>>>>>>> coming apart.  Removed spark plug and cranked with spark plug
>>>>>>> grounded.   No spark.  Changed ignition coil and still no spark.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't know where or how to start looking.  Since the battery cable was
>>>>>>> loose and I took off the ground to install the starter, the codes are
>>>>>>> not in the computer.  I don't find any method for testing the ECM.
>>>>>>> There are some forum discussions on the flex plate cracking around  the
>>>>>>> crankshaft in an octagon pattern and the flex plate shifting.  When this
>>>>>>> happens, the crank position sensor works on the flex plate, and is then
>>>>>>> out of time with the cam position sensor.   I cannot find an inspection
>>>>>>> plate to look at the flex plate.  It would be a 2 day job for me to
>>>>>>> remove the transmission to look at the plate.  However, I wonder about
>>>>>>> the original starter just spinning and then the replacement sounding
>>>>>>> like it is about to fly apart.  If the flex plate is not right, the old
>>>>>>> starter might have not been able to mesh and the new one is meshing but
>>>>>>> in a bind.  The old starter had to be pried out of the housing as the
>>>>>>> nose of the starter was nearly pressed into the bell housing.  The new
>>>>>>> one was easily pushed into the housing.   So far I have lost over 3 days
>>>>>>> and nearly $500 working on this when I need to be working on the swather
>>>>>>> and the water pump on the 1270 Case to pull the swather.  An ECM is
>>>>>>> another $400, and replacing the flex plate will be at least $600 because
>>>>>>> I need to send it out.
>>>>>>> Has anyone had any experience like this?   I know if I take it to the
>>>>>>> stealership, I will be out $1000 by the time they get done.  I don't
>>>>>>> have an independent mechanic here I can trust, and if I have to spend a
>>>>>>> bundle on this car, I am about ready to buy a new one and try to get a
>>>>>>> 20 year extended warranty!!!  Then maybe I can get some work done.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>>> Grab a voltmeter. Turn on the key and test the crank sensor for power
>>>>>> and ground, It is on the bellhousing right below the crossover pipe for
>>>>>> the exhaust. 3 wires, Brown/Pink is 8 volt bias voltage, Dark Blue/Dark
>>>>>> Green is the ground. Brown/Light Blue is the signal wire. If you have a
>>>>>> scope you would see a square wave on that line.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Easy cheat IF it has a tach, Does the tach move at all while cranking?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Next, disconnect the battery. Hold the two cables together for about 30
>>>>>> seconds, this will drain the KAM capacitors. Now reconnect the cables.
>>>>>> Turn on the key and lock/unlock the doors twice.
>>>>>> See if it starts. You may need to step on the throttle if it acts like
>>>>>> it wants to start because it will need to relearn the TPS output again.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> csr684  at  yahoo  dot com  if you wish to continue.
>>>>>>
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