[AT] Off Topic. Need help with Dodge caravan computer maybe?

Fri May 19 08:48:04 PDT 2017

Will Check.   Under storm conditions here right now with tennis ball 
hail and tornado threat.

Cecil in OKla

On 5/19/2017 9:41 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
> All is controlled by the ASD. Can you feel the relay click if someone
> else turns the key on? Make sure you have constant power to one leg of
> the relay. Usually the schematic will be on the relay itself. Doug T
>
> On 5/19/2017 8:38 AM, Cecil Bearden wrote:
>> I swapped the relays with the ASD relay yesterday.   Since the plugs are
>> dry, I think both fuel and spark are shut down.
>>
>> Cecil
>>
>>
>> On 5/19/2017 7:16 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
>>> Cecil, There is a relay in the underhood box called an auto shutdown
>>> relay. It controls voltage to the ignition coil among a bunch of other
>>> circuits. you could check for voltage at the coil or just swap the relay
>>> with another similar one from the box and try it first. Doug T
>>>
>>> On 5/19/2017 8:03 AM, Cecil Bearden wrote:
>>>> St eve:
>>>> Thanks I will try it.  My thoughts are that the charging syst em
>>>> grounded through a sensor.
>>>>
>>>> Cecil
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 5/18/2017 10:56 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>>>> Cecil Bearden wrote:
>>>>>> I know a lot of you guys have more experience with the computer systems
>>>>>> than I have.  I have suffered through Youtube videos of nearly every
>>>>>> self described ëxpert"in diagnosing a no start condition.  Here's the
>>>>>> timeline of what has been replaced and what happened.  Wife's 2003 Grand
>>>>>> Caravan w/ 3.8L V6 130000 miles.  Sat Morning, alternator making loud
>>>>>> whine heard 40 yds away.  Alternator would burn your fingers after
>>>>>> running only 4 minutes.  Dropped Alternator and found noisy water pump
>>>>>> also leaking when inspecting other pulleys.  Replaced alternator and
>>>>>> water pump after bolt broke off on water pump.  Drilled it out Sat night
>>>>>> with cordless screwdriver and hex chuck style bits.  Had partial threads
>>>>>> so used a longer bolt and put a nut on back side.   Got it back together
>>>>>> on Sunday and had to wait until Mon morning to get some Christmas tree
>>>>>> fasteners to hold the belt shield.  Tuesday my wife drove it nearly 150
>>>>>> miles in OKC and made at least 15 stops running errands with no
>>>>>> problems.  Arrived at front gate and engine died.  Would not start when
>>>>>> cranking.  It is possible she stopped and backed up when it died, ( just
>>>>>> info for later )  but I cannot confirm.  Found battery ground cable
>>>>>> loose after engine would not crank.  Tightened cable and cranked
>>>>>> engine.  After several tries the starter would just spin and not engage
>>>>>> the flywheel.   Wednesday got reman starter and spent 3 hours removing
>>>>>> the old one.  I installed the new starter this morning, and it would
>>>>>> crank but not start.  The new starter really grinds, sounds like it is
>>>>>> coming apart.  Removed spark plug and cranked with spark plug
>>>>>> grounded.   No spark.  Changed ignition coil and still no spark.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't know where or how to start looking.  Since the battery cable was
>>>>>> loose and I took off the ground to install the starter, the codes are
>>>>>> not in the computer.  I don't find any method for testing the ECM.
>>>>>> There are some forum discussions on the flex plate cracking around  the
>>>>>> crankshaft in an octagon pattern and the flex plate shifting.  When this
>>>>>> happens, the crank position sensor works on the flex plate, and is then
>>>>>> out of time with the cam position sensor.   I cannot find an inspection
>>>>>> plate to look at the flex plate.  It would be a 2 day job for me to
>>>>>> remove the transmission to look at the plate.  However, I wonder about
>>>>>> the original starter just spinning and then the replacement sounding
>>>>>> like it is about to fly apart.  If the flex plate is not right, the old
>>>>>> starter might have not been able to mesh and the new one is meshing but
>>>>>> in a bind.  The old starter had to be pried out of the housing as the
>>>>>> nose of the starter was nearly pressed into the bell housing.  The new
>>>>>> one was easily pushed into the housing.   So far I have lost over 3 days
>>>>>> and nearly $500 working on this when I need to be working on the swather
>>>>>> and the water pump on the 1270 Case to pull the swather.  An ECM is
>>>>>> another $400, and replacing the flex plate will be at least $600 because
>>>>>> I need to send it out.
>>>>>> Has anyone had any experience like this?   I know if I take it to the
>>>>>> stealership, I will be out $1000 by the time they get done.  I don't
>>>>>> have an independent mechanic here I can trust, and if I have to spend a
>>>>>> bundle on this car, I am about ready to buy a new one and try to get a
>>>>>> 20 year extended warranty!!!  Then maybe I can get some work done.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>>> Grab a voltmeter. Turn on the key and test the crank sensor for power
>>>>> and ground, It is on the bellhousing right below the crossover pipe for
>>>>> the exhaust. 3 wires, Brown/Pink is 8 volt bias voltage, Dark Blue/Dark
>>>>> Green is the ground. Brown/Light Blue is the signal wire. If you have a
>>>>> scope you would see a square wave on that line.
>>>>>
>>>>> Easy cheat IF it has a tach, Does the tach move at all while cranking?
>>>>>
>>>>> Next, disconnect the battery. Hold the two cables together for about 30
>>>>> seconds, this will drain the KAM capacitors. Now reconnect the cables.
>>>>> Turn on the key and lock/unlock the doors twice.
>>>>> See if it starts. You may need to step on the throttle if it acts like
>>>>> it wants to start because it will need to relearn the TPS output again.
>>>>>
>>>>> csr684  at  yahoo  dot com  if you wish to continue.
>>>>>
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