[AT] JD B resurrection contemplation

Tue Apr 4 12:05:14 PDT 2017

Dry Ice works better with Alcohol, Isopropil or ethanol or methanol, 
Ethyl will also will also work both bottled in bond and bottled in or 
behind the barn!!

Cecil

On 4/4/2017 11:26 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Al,  the Nitrogen will lower the temperature of the piston dramatically
> and cause it to shrink, breaking the bond with the cyl. wall.
> A hunk of dry ice laid on top of the piston should do the same thing.
> At least that is what I think it would do.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Al Jones
> Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 9:41 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection contemplation
>
> Cecil, can you elaborate on the liquid Nitrogen thing for removing
> stuck pistons?
>
> Al
>
> On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 6:11 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>> If you have to remove the block w/ stuck pistons, turn it upside down,
>> fill the pistons up to the tops of the skirts with liquid Nitrogen,
>> Liquid propane works too, I used it until I got a Dewar.  Let it sit
>> awhile then try to push the pistons out with a hardwood block or a heavy
>> metal spacer that just fits into the bore, and a hydraulic jack.  If you
>> have a big press that would be great.
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>> On 4/2/2017 9:44 PM, deanvp wrote:
>>> John, Excellent advice. I've had good luck filling the cylinders with a
>>> favorite concoction, assuming both valves are closed and rocker arm and
>>> spark plugs removed, and use a long bar tied to the flywheel. Let it soak
>>> for days maybe even weeks. Each day try to turn the flywheel. When it is
>>> ready it will pop loose. Then work the flywheel back and forth until you
>>> can get it to turn several revolutions. Then have someone pull you on the
>>> tractor with it in gear with either Kerosene or Diesel fuel in the
>>> crankcase.  Let the engine turn over and over until it is fully loose.The
>>> thinner fluid helps get the cylinder wall lubricated faster than regular
>>> oil.  Then do what you normally do to start it the first time. It may
>>> exhaust all kinds of crap out the muffler and will probably exhaust a lot
>>> of blue smoke for a long time due to oil rings which may be stuck.  Get
>>> the engine up to operating temperature(200 degrees if possible) and run
>>> it at that temp for at least 15 minutes. Then !
> s!
>>   hut it down for at least 24 hours and start it again and see if the blue
>> smoke is less.  Repeat as necessary. The heating and cooling will
>> eventually release the stuck rings if you are lucky. I've saved three 2
>> cylinder JD engines this way and have never needed to tear them down.
>> Might be worth a try. Worst case you will have to tear it down.
>>>
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
>>> -------- Original message --------From: John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
>>> Date: 4/2/17  7:00 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion
>>> group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection
>>> contemplation
>>> If the cylinders are stuck because they are full of water, then nothing,
>>> you are going to have to take it apart and remove the gunk. VERIFY that
>>> the valves are not stuck or you WILL break something (been there done
>>> that)---ever notice how many hit-and-miss engines have the rocker arm
>>> post welded back to the head? The problem with trying to soak a Deere is
>>> the amount of fluid it takes to fill up the cylinder, of course if there
>>> is a valve open you are going to be filling up something else as well.
>>> When we were working on my Titan 10-20 (also a 2 cylinder horizontal
>>> engine), I just went to Lowes and bought a gallon of wd-40 and poured
>>> half in each cylinder and let it soak until we ever got it in the shop,
>>> somewhere between a week and 2 months, I don't remember. I've heard good
>>> things about diesel and ATF, besides its cheap. If this turns out to be
>>> a worst case scenario of frozen solid, Then pull the engine and safely
>>> secure it with the bores upright so you can resort to better penetrating
>>> oils such as PB-Blaster or Kroil. I had one so bad once we poured in
>>> diesel fuel and set it on fire. Obviously there are many dangers with
>>> that and you need to think ahead and have at least one other person
>>> around for help. Know before you decide to beat the crap out of the
>>> pistons to remove them, you need to make something that has a little bit
>>> of clearance in the bore and has a relieved center--remember the center
>>> of the piston isn't stuck so you don't need to hit it--you need to hit
>>> the skirt/sides, thats the reason for the relieved face. I've heard of
>>> using wood but I prefer metal myself. For really bad engines I've heard
>>> of dry ice, boiling water,lots of ideas. Lets hope yours is rather
>>> "boring" and comes apart easily.
>>>
>>> Well I got long winded on that, keep us posted please, been a LOOOOOOONG
>>> time since anyone here actually took on a restoration like this (if they
>>> did I don't recall any posts about it).
>>>
>>> John Hall
>>>
>>> On 4/2/2017 5:52 PM, Al Jones wrote:
>>>> Now, I know it's been discussed a million times, and everyone has their
>>>> favorite, but what do you think would be the best "julip" to start
>>>> soaking it with?  My notion is to fill the spark plug holes as well as
>>>> fill the main case....I fear there's rust in the crankcase/tranny
>>>> because the gear shift lever is stuck.
>>>>
>>>> Al
>>>>
>>>>
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