[AT] JD B resurrection contemplation

[Charlie V]

Al,. Guessing that Cecil's plan is to deep freeze the pistons to contract
them away from the cylinder walls and break the rust bond.


On Apr 3, 2017 9:52 PM, "Al Jones" <farmallsupera1 at gmail.com> wrote:

Cecil, can you elaborate on the liquid Nitrogen thing for removing
stuck pistons?

Al

On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 6:11 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> If you have to remove the block w/ stuck pistons, turn it upside down,
> fill the pistons up to the tops of the skirts with liquid Nitrogen,
> Liquid propane works too, I used it until I got a Dewar.  Let it sit
> awhile then try to push the pistons out with a hardwood block or a heavy
> metal spacer that just fits into the bore, and a hydraulic jack.  If you
> have a big press that would be great.
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
> On 4/2/2017 9:44 PM, deanvp wrote:
>> John, Excellent advice. I've had good luck filling the cylinders with a
favorite concoction, assuming both valves are closed and rocker arm and
spark plugs removed, and use a long bar tied to the flywheel. Let it soak
for days maybe even weeks. Each day try to turn the flywheel. When it is
ready it will pop loose. Then work the flywheel back and forth until you
can get it to turn several revolutions. Then have someone pull you on the
tractor with it in gear with either Kerosene or Diesel fuel in the
crankcase.  Let the engine turn over and over until it is fully loose.The
thinner fluid helps get the cylinder wall lubricated faster than regular
oil.  Then do what you normally do to start it the first time. It may
exhaust all kinds of crap out the muffler and will probably exhaust a lot
of blue smoke for a long time due to oil rings which may be stuck.  Get the
engine up to operating temperature(200 degrees if possible) and run it at
that temp for at least 15 minutes. Then !
 s!
>  hut it down for at least 24 hours and start it again and see if the blue
smoke is less.  Repeat as necessary. The heating and cooling will
eventually release the stuck rings if you are lucky. I've saved three 2
cylinder JD engines this way and have never needed to tear them down.
Might be worth a try. Worst case you will have to tear it down.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
>> -------- Original message --------From: John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
Date: 4/2/17  7:00 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion
group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection
contemplation
>> If the cylinders are stuck because they are full of water, then nothing,
>> you are going to have to take it apart and remove the gunk. VERIFY that
>> the valves are not stuck or you WILL break something (been there done
>> that)---ever notice how many hit-and-miss engines have the rocker arm
>> post welded back to the head? The problem with trying to soak a Deere is
>> the amount of fluid it takes to fill up the cylinder, of course if there
>> is a valve open you are going to be filling up something else as well.
>> When we were working on my Titan 10-20 (also a 2 cylinder horizontal
>> engine), I just went to Lowes and bought a gallon of wd-40 and poured
>> half in each cylinder and let it soak until we ever got it in the shop,
>> somewhere between a week and 2 months, I don't remember. I've heard good
>> things about diesel and ATF, besides its cheap. If this turns out to be
>> a worst case scenario of frozen solid, Then pull the engine and safely
>> secure it with the bores upright so you can resort to better penetrating
>> oils such as PB-Blaster or Kroil. I had one so bad once we poured in
>> diesel fuel and set it on fire. Obviously there are many dangers with
>> that and you need to think ahead and have at least one other person
>> around for help. Know before you decide to beat the crap out of the
>> pistons to remove them, you need to make something that has a little bit
>> of clearance in the bore and has a relieved center--remember the center
>> of the piston isn't stuck so you don't need to hit it--you need to hit
>> the skirt/sides, thats the reason for the relieved face. I've heard of
>> using wood but I prefer metal myself. For really bad engines I've heard
>> of dry ice, boiling water,lots of ideas. Lets hope yours is rather
>> "boring" and comes apart easily.
>>
>> Well I got long winded on that, keep us posted please, been a LOOOOOOONG
>> time since anyone here actually took on a restoration like this (if they
>> did I don't recall any posts about it).
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>> On 4/2/2017 5:52 PM, Al Jones wrote:
>>> Now, I know it's been discussed a million times, and everyone has their
favorite, but what do you think would be the best "julip" to start soaking
it with?  My notion is to fill the spark plug holes as well as fill the
main case....I fear there's rust in the crankcase/tranny because the gear
shift lever is stuck.
>>>
>>> Al
>>>
>>>
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