[AT] JD B resurrection contemplation

[charlie hill]

Al,  I know a guy that occasionally builds Aluminum and Stainless Steel fuel 
tanks
for boats.  He uses diesel fuel to leak test them.  He says if it will hold 
diesel fuel
it will hold anything.  That tells me diesel is a pretty good solvent. 
Unless you want
to go to something expensive or exotic that might be a good place to start.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Al Jones
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 5:52 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection contemplation

Discussed it with my dad yesterday, and I think when the weather warms up we 
might start taking it apart to see just what we have.  I found a shop about 
2 hrs. away that specializes in JDs and the prices compare with a typical 
Super A Farmall.

Now, I know it's been discussed a million times, and everyone has their 
favorite, but what do you think would be the best "julip" to start soaking 
it with?  My notion is to fill the spark plug holes as well as fill the main 
case....I fear there's rust in the crankcase/tranny because the gear shift 
lever is stuck.

Al

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 31, 2017, at 12:06 AM, drupert at seanet.com wrote:
>
> Another issue closely related to what Dean has pointed out is not only do
> these two cylinder Deeres have big Bores they also have long Strokes.  It
> was a couple of yeas ago now that I had my late Model B Block bored 90
> thousants.  The Machinist groaned and moned when he saw & measured the
> Bore size but finally said he could do it.  But what neither he nor I had
> thought about was could his machine bore all the way through the
> Block...turns out he did it but had to get very creative to do it.
>
> Dudley
>
>> Al,
>>
>> Buying a complete parts tractor sometimes can be the most economical
>> solution to restoring a family tractor.  There is one issue to look out
>> for
>> when boring a JD tractor block. A lot of machine shops do not have the
>> right
>> equipment for boring blocks with bores in the 5 to 6" or larger range.
>> They
>> make think they do, but the bore might chatter and ruin the block. Make
>> sure
>> you find a shop that has extended experience boring blocks bigger than 
>> you
>> need.
>>
>> Dean VP
>> Apache junction, AZ
>>
>> It's better to be judged by 12 than carried by 6.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Al Jones
>> Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 11:22 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Subject: [AT] JD B resurrection contemplation
>>
>> We have a B, serial number is in the 297xxx range, that's a basket case
>> but
>> it's a family tractor and my dad is interested in getting it running. It
>> was
>> parked because the oil pressure dropped and though it didn't seize, it 
>> was
>> close to it. This was almost 30 years ago! Then it sat outside for years,
>> cover blew off the muffler, etc. It originally had a roll-o-matic front
>> end
>> but the pedestal broke and a standard front was swapped in, if we get it
>> running we want to put one back on. I'm confident that the block will 
>> need
>> to be bored and probably the crank turned, anyone have recommendations on
>> shops to get that done? I'm an IH collector so JD is like being on 
>> another
>> planet.
>> Buying a good, complete parts tractor is not out of the question either.
>> We're in southeast NC.
>>
>> thanks,
>> Al
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