[AT] Weekend issues

Tue Sep 20 05:38:25 PDT 2016

Many years ago I used to haul around an MF 85 diesel and LP tractor.  I 
had 2 rough cut oak boards3"x 12" about 8 ft long that I loaded the 
tractors onto a 14ft bumper pull trailer with.  At that time they were 
not too heavy and the tractor tires did not slip on them when loading.

Cecil in oKla

On 9/20/2016 7:01 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> I've got a couple sets of ramps, but the ones I use most frequently are
> simply cheapo spruce 2x8's, 12' long, each with a single 2x3 8' long
> screwed lengthwise, centered, on the bottom for additional stiffness.
> Actually these ramps did not get a ton of thought; I threw them together
> from materials on-hand one winter during a pretty big snowstorm when I had
> to load my snowblower into the truck to help dig out the barn so my wife
> could reach her horse. Snowdrifts 6-8'  high had completely obliterated the
> turnout door.  Anyway, they work reasonably OK loading 300-400 lb machinery
> and I like the 12' length to reduce the angle up into the truck. The 2x3 is
> marginally effective and they still deflect a fair amount.  They are
> reasonably lightweight, however.
>
> My idea for improvement is shown in the attached picture - sorry for the
> poor quality but this is just a quick digital sketch using Microsoft
> Paint.  Basically I want to eliminate the 2x3 and instead pre-stress the
> ramp with a cable.  It works like any pre-stressed structure; as the ramp
> takes a load it tries to straighten itself out (which is removing the
> pre-stress... in other words, when loaded, the stresses in the wood are
> lower than when it's just sitting there).  The cable is taking the load
> instead.   There would need to be a turnbuckle, not shown in the sketch.
> Details need to be worked out... for example the cable attachment at each
> end needs to be extremely robust.  Just throwing the idea out there.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 2:16 AM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis, if you are spry enough to crawl under a truck and install and
>> modify then reinstall an oil sensor,  you are spry enough to lift what I
>> calculate to be a 50 lb ramp. Most of this list is made up of gents of
>> similar vintage. Farmers glue lam would be no lighter, neither would a
>> 2x8 oak board.
>>
>> Regard,
>>    Mike M
>>
>>
>> On 9/19/2016 10:59 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> Being an old man, I get concerned about weight. Yes, it would work.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>> On Sep 19, 2016, at 9:14 PM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Dennis, to borrow on Farmer's idea, what if you were to make a
>>>> sandwiched beam with (2) 2 x 8's screwed together with a plywood center
>>>> as a stiffener? Like a load bearing header.
>>>>
>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On 9/19/2016 7:40 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
>>>>> Farmer,
>>>>>
>>>>> I agree that there are many solutions to this, engineered wood (but
>> they would not like rain or elements), store bought aluminum ramps if I
>> locked them in place, steel ramps, and combinations of wood and steel.
>> Custom cut from a mill with full 2" thickness might be the best option if I
>> can find a mill and take some time to go get them. Maybe it is time to
>> switch to 2 X 12 boards but will need to carry them on edge because I do
>> not want to have mower offset too much to the side.
>>>>> What is frustrating is that I have used 2 X 8 or 2 X 10's for 20 plus
>> years to load LAWN MOWERS. That is why Cecil's comment about good wood
>> going outside the USA got me to thinking that he may have a valid point. I
>> switched to 2 X 10's when I got mowers a little bit heavier than what I had
>> 20 years ago. Every 5 to 10 years something happens and I need to replace
>> the wood. The center support method has some issues on dealing with truck
>> and trailer suspension flex. When I have something a bit heavier (like my
>> Bolens 1502H) I had done the center support blocks.
>>>>> I like this method because they are reasonably light, cheap, weather
>> resistant if treated. They are quick to put up and down. And I have a post
>> welded to the trailer and a hole in one end of the ramp where I can just
>> put them down over the pin and drive off with no worry. I have not had
>> problems with anyone trying to steal a board.
>>>>> Another thing that bothers me is that the new board has about 1 inch
>> of extra deflection compared to the old 2 X 10 that has aged 3 or 4 years.
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Dennis
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sep 19, 2016, at 3:27 PM, Indiana Robinson <
>> robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> If I wanted wood ramp boards I think I would consider laminated
>> engineered
>>>>>> lumber. Really strong stuff and no weak points.
>>>>>> If I ever was suspicious of loading boards / weight combinations I
>> reduced
>>>>>> their length by half with blocks under the middle but with a warning.
>>>>>> Blocking under the middle can make one end or the other lift (and
>> move) at
>>>>>> the end like at the truck bed. To prevent that movement the middle
>> blocks
>>>>>> should be low enough that the middle of the boards can flex down a
>> couple
>>>>>> of inches before contacting the support blocks. That keeps weight on
>> both
>>>>>> ends of the board.
>>>>>> I needed a shortish pair of ramps for loading my Cub several years
>> ago so I
>>>>>> made them out of a couple of pieces of light-ish "I" beam cut from a
>>>>>> removable mobile home hitch and used them flat. I cut a couple of 12"
>>>>>> pieces of an old "U" steel fence post and welded them across one end
>> of
>>>>>> each ramp cup down. That sits on a support across the back of several
>>>>>> trailers. They will also work to roll logs onto my little Woodmizer
>> sawmill
>>>>>> (if I ever get a chance to use it).
>>>>>> The Cub weighs about 1,800 pounds and it does not flex the ramps.
>> They are
>>>>>> maybe 5' long.
>>>>>> I have not shown anything for several years but I think I can next
>> year. I
>>>>>> finally completely quit the Atorvastatin and the Zetia both and at
>> long
>>>>>> last actually feel like I am really healing. The Atorvastatin
>> (Lipitor) was
>>>>>> really destructive on muscle tissue along with a whole basket-full of
>> other
>>>>>> bad side effects. The Zetia was causing severe shortness of breath. My
>>>>>> regular Dr. is quite open minded about treatments but the cardiac
>> folks all
>>>>>> seem to be playing a one string banjo... It largely involves a bad
>> case of
>>>>>> denial of any side effects of those two drugs.If I croak more quickly
>> from
>>>>>> not taking them it will still be better than the life I was living
>> with the
>>>>>> side effects...
>>>>>> I could have asked son Scott to haul a tractor to a show and he has
>> in the
>>>>>> past but he does a huge amount to keep us going as it is. He and I did
>>>>>> visit 3 nearby shows this summer together.
>>>>>> I saw a quote on-line this morning: "Sometimes it takes me all day to
>>>>>> accomplish nothing."  :-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 1:07 PM, <tmehrkam at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You need to borrow better equipment. :-}
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>      On Monday, September 19, 2016 8:44 AM, Cecil Bearden <
>>>>>>> crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Sounds like the typical quality problems we endure these days. Cover
>> the
>>>>>>> bottom of those ramps with a 1/8 sheet of steel or aluminum and they
>>>>>>> will hold together.  All the good lumber in the US is shipped
>>>>>>> overseas.  We get the crap.  Those senders were probably made in
>> China
>>>>>>> or India.  Parts houses don't carry the fittings they used to.
>> Hardware
>>>>>>> stores are the best bet on that now...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cecil in Okla
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 9/19/2016 12:42 AM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
>>>>>>>> All
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The last few days I have been hit with stupid little stuff.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Borrowing my son's V10 Ram to haul some mowers to Okla. leaving 2
>> there
>>>>>>> with someone and hauling my Hustler back after doing some mowing
>> there.
>>>>>>>> V10 failed an oil pressure sender Wednesday near Ennis Tx. Changed
>> it
>>>>>>> out in parts store parking lot, which was not fun on hot engine. This
>>>>>>> morning on the way to church the replacement sender also failed,
>> putting a
>>>>>>> small stream of oil out the electrical connection, just like the
>> first one
>>>>>>> did. Got replacement under warranty, but went to 6 places looking
>> for 1/8
>>>>>>> NPT 45 elbow and could not find. Want to move sensor so I can get a
>> wrench
>>>>>>> or sender socket on it. Finally found short nipple and coupling that
>> should
>>>>>>> move it away from block slightly. Tomorrow morning will try to
>> install the
>>>>>>> second sensor when engine is cool before I start it.
>>>>>>>> Yesterday I snapped one of the blade spindle housings in two pieces
>> on
>>>>>>> my Hustler Fastrack SD mower. Was able to fine some replacement
>> parts just
>>>>>>> before store closed. Was able to finish mowing this afternoon.
>>>>>>>> This weekend the 2 X 10 ramps I use to load mower failed near a knot
>>>>>>> hole. Friday I got a new 2 X 10, and it snapped in two pieces on
>> Saturday.
>>>>>>> Yesterday got a second replacement on that also.
>>>>>>>> Dennis
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
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>>>>>> --
>>>>>> --
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Francis Robinson
>>>>>> aka "farmer"
>>>>>> Central Indiana USA
>>>>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
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