[AT] Weekend issues

Tue Sep 20 05:01:04 PDT 2016

I've got a couple sets of ramps, but the ones I use most frequently are
simply cheapo spruce 2x8's, 12' long, each with a single 2x3 8' long
screwed lengthwise, centered, on the bottom for additional stiffness.
Actually these ramps did not get a ton of thought; I threw them together
from materials on-hand one winter during a pretty big snowstorm when I had
to load my snowblower into the truck to help dig out the barn so my wife
could reach her horse. Snowdrifts 6-8'  high had completely obliterated the
turnout door.  Anyway, they work reasonably OK loading 300-400 lb machinery
and I like the 12' length to reduce the angle up into the truck. The 2x3 is
marginally effective and they still deflect a fair amount.  They are
reasonably lightweight, however.

My idea for improvement is shown in the attached picture - sorry for the
poor quality but this is just a quick digital sketch using Microsoft
Paint.  Basically I want to eliminate the 2x3 and instead pre-stress the
ramp with a cable.  It works like any pre-stressed structure; as the ramp
takes a load it tries to straighten itself out (which is removing the
pre-stress... in other words, when loaded, the stresses in the wood are
lower than when it's just sitting there).  The cable is taking the load
instead.   There would need to be a turnbuckle, not shown in the sketch.
Details need to be worked out... for example the cable attachment at each
end needs to be extremely robust.  Just throwing the idea out there.

SO

On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 2:16 AM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:

> Dennis, if you are spry enough to crawl under a truck and install and
> modify then reinstall an oil sensor,  you are spry enough to lift what I
> calculate to be a 50 lb ramp. Most of this list is made up of gents of
> similar vintage. Farmers glue lam would be no lighter, neither would a
> 2x8 oak board.
>
> Regard,
>   Mike M
>
>
> On 9/19/2016 10:59 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
> > Mike,
> >
> > Being an old man, I get concerned about weight. Yes, it would work.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Sep 19, 2016, at 9:14 PM, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Dennis, to borrow on Farmer's idea, what if you were to make a
> >> sandwiched beam with (2) 2 x 8's screwed together with a plywood center
> >> as a stiffener? Like a load bearing header.
> >>
> >> Mike M
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 9/19/2016 7:40 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
> >>> Farmer,
> >>>
> >>> I agree that there are many solutions to this, engineered wood (but
> they would not like rain or elements), store bought aluminum ramps if I
> locked them in place, steel ramps, and combinations of wood and steel.
> Custom cut from a mill with full 2" thickness might be the best option if I
> can find a mill and take some time to go get them. Maybe it is time to
> switch to 2 X 12 boards but will need to carry them on edge because I do
> not want to have mower offset too much to the side.
> >>>
> >>> What is frustrating is that I have used 2 X 8 or 2 X 10's for 20 plus
> years to load LAWN MOWERS. That is why Cecil's comment about good wood
> going outside the USA got me to thinking that he may have a valid point. I
> switched to 2 X 10's when I got mowers a little bit heavier than what I had
> 20 years ago. Every 5 to 10 years something happens and I need to replace
> the wood. The center support method has some issues on dealing with truck
> and trailer suspension flex. When I have something a bit heavier (like my
> Bolens 1502H) I had done the center support blocks.
> >>>
> >>> I like this method because they are reasonably light, cheap, weather
> resistant if treated. They are quick to put up and down. And I have a post
> welded to the trailer and a hole in one end of the ramp where I can just
> put them down over the pin and drive off with no worry. I have not had
> problems with anyone trying to steal a board.
> >>>
> >>> Another thing that bothers me is that the new board has about 1 inch
> of extra deflection compared to the old 2 X 10 that has aged 3 or 4 years.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks
> >>> Dennis
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPad
> >>>
> >>>> On Sep 19, 2016, at 3:27 PM, Indiana Robinson <
> robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> If I wanted wood ramp boards I think I would consider laminated
> engineered
> >>>> lumber. Really strong stuff and no weak points.
> >>>> If I ever was suspicious of loading boards / weight combinations I
> reduced
> >>>> their length by half with blocks under the middle but with a warning.
> >>>> Blocking under the middle can make one end or the other lift (and
> move) at
> >>>> the end like at the truck bed. To prevent that movement the middle
> blocks
> >>>> should be low enough that the middle of the boards can flex down a
> couple
> >>>> of inches before contacting the support blocks. That keeps weight on
> both
> >>>> ends of the board.
> >>>> I needed a shortish pair of ramps for loading my Cub several years
> ago so I
> >>>> made them out of a couple of pieces of light-ish "I" beam cut from a
> >>>> removable mobile home hitch and used them flat. I cut a couple of 12"
> >>>> pieces of an old "U" steel fence post and welded them across one end
> of
> >>>> each ramp cup down. That sits on a support across the back of several
> >>>> trailers. They will also work to roll logs onto my little Woodmizer
> sawmill
> >>>> (if I ever get a chance to use it).
> >>>> The Cub weighs about 1,800 pounds and it does not flex the ramps.
> They are
> >>>> maybe 5' long.
> >>>> I have not shown anything for several years but I think I can next
> year. I
> >>>> finally completely quit the Atorvastatin and the Zetia both and at
> long
> >>>> last actually feel like I am really healing. The Atorvastatin
> (Lipitor) was
> >>>> really destructive on muscle tissue along with a whole basket-full of
> other
> >>>> bad side effects. The Zetia was causing severe shortness of breath. My
> >>>> regular Dr. is quite open minded about treatments but the cardiac
> folks all
> >>>> seem to be playing a one string banjo... It largely involves a bad
> case of
> >>>> denial of any side effects of those two drugs.If I croak more quickly
> from
> >>>> not taking them it will still be better than the life I was living
> with the
> >>>> side effects...
> >>>> I could have asked son Scott to haul a tractor to a show and he has
> in the
> >>>> past but he does a huge amount to keep us going as it is. He and I did
> >>>> visit 3 nearby shows this summer together.
> >>>> I saw a quote on-line this morning: "Sometimes it takes me all day to
> >>>> accomplish nothing."  :-)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> .
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 1:07 PM, <tmehrkam at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> You need to borrow better equipment. :-}
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     On Monday, September 19, 2016 8:44 AM, Cecil Bearden <
> >>>>> crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sounds like the typical quality problems we endure these days. Cover
> the
> >>>>> bottom of those ramps with a 1/8 sheet of steel or aluminum and they
> >>>>> will hold together.  All the good lumber in the US is shipped
> >>>>> overseas.  We get the crap.  Those senders were probably made in
> China
> >>>>> or India.  Parts houses don't carry the fittings they used to.
> Hardware
> >>>>> stores are the best bet on that now...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Cecil in Okla
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On 9/19/2016 12:42 AM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
> >>>>>> All
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> The last few days I have been hit with stupid little stuff.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Borrowing my son's V10 Ram to haul some mowers to Okla. leaving 2
> there
> >>>>> with someone and hauling my Hustler back after doing some mowing
> there.
> >>>>>> V10 failed an oil pressure sender Wednesday near Ennis Tx. Changed
> it
> >>>>> out in parts store parking lot, which was not fun on hot engine. This
> >>>>> morning on the way to church the replacement sender also failed,
> putting a
> >>>>> small stream of oil out the electrical connection, just like the
> first one
> >>>>> did. Got replacement under warranty, but went to 6 places looking
> for 1/8
> >>>>> NPT 45 elbow and could not find. Want to move sensor so I can get a
> wrench
> >>>>> or sender socket on it. Finally found short nipple and coupling that
> should
> >>>>> move it away from block slightly. Tomorrow morning will try to
> install the
> >>>>> second sensor when engine is cool before I start it.
> >>>>>> Yesterday I snapped one of the blade spindle housings in two pieces
> on
> >>>>> my Hustler Fastrack SD mower. Was able to fine some replacement
> parts just
> >>>>> before store closed. Was able to finish mowing this afternoon.
> >>>>>> This weekend the 2 X 10 ramps I use to load mower failed near a knot
> >>>>> hole. Friday I got a new 2 X 10, and it snapped in two pieces on
> Saturday.
> >>>>> Yesterday got a second replacement on that also.
> >>>>>> Dennis
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Sent from my iPad
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> AT mailing list
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> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>
> >>>> --
> >>>> --
> >>>>
> >>>> Francis Robinson
> >>>> aka "farmer"
> >>>> Central Indiana USA
> >>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> AT mailing list
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> >>> _______________________________________________
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