[AT] Weekend issues

Mon Sep 19 16:40:28 PDT 2016

Farmer,

I agree that there are many solutions to this, engineered wood (but they would not like rain or elements), store bought aluminum ramps if I locked them in place, steel ramps, and combinations of wood and steel. Custom cut from a mill with full 2" thickness might be the best option if I can find a mill and take some time to go get them. Maybe it is time to switch to 2 X 12 boards but will need to carry them on edge because I do not want to have mower offset too much to the side.

What is frustrating is that I have used 2 X 8 or 2 X 10's for 20 plus years to load LAWN MOWERS. That is why Cecil's comment about good wood going outside the USA got me to thinking that he may have a valid point. I switched to 2 X 10's when I got mowers a little bit heavier than what I had 20 years ago. Every 5 to 10 years something happens and I need to replace the wood. The center support method has some issues on dealing with truck and trailer suspension flex. When I have something a bit heavier (like my Bolens 1502H) I had done the center support blocks. 

I like this method because they are reasonably light, cheap, weather resistant if treated. They are quick to put up and down. And I have a post welded to the trailer and a hole in one end of the ramp where I can just put them down over the pin and drive off with no worry. I have not had problems with anyone trying to steal a board.

Another thing that bothers me is that the new board has about 1 inch of extra deflection compared to the old 2 X 10 that has aged 3 or 4 years.

Thanks
Dennis

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 19, 2016, at 3:27 PM, Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> If I wanted wood ramp boards I think I would consider laminated engineered
> lumber. Really strong stuff and no weak points.
> If I ever was suspicious of loading boards / weight combinations I reduced
> their length by half with blocks under the middle but with a warning.
> Blocking under the middle can make one end or the other lift (and move) at
> the end like at the truck bed. To prevent that movement the middle blocks
> should be low enough that the middle of the boards can flex down a couple
> of inches before contacting the support blocks. That keeps weight on both
> ends of the board.
> I needed a shortish pair of ramps for loading my Cub several years ago so I
> made them out of a couple of pieces of light-ish "I" beam cut from a
> removable mobile home hitch and used them flat. I cut a couple of 12"
> pieces of an old "U" steel fence post and welded them across one end of
> each ramp cup down. That sits on a support across the back of several
> trailers. They will also work to roll logs onto my little Woodmizer sawmill
> (if I ever get a chance to use it).
> The Cub weighs about 1,800 pounds and it does not flex the ramps. They are
> maybe 5' long.
> I have not shown anything for several years but I think I can next year. I
> finally completely quit the Atorvastatin and the Zetia both and at long
> last actually feel like I am really healing. The Atorvastatin (Lipitor) was
> really destructive on muscle tissue along with a whole basket-full of other
> bad side effects. The Zetia was causing severe shortness of breath. My
> regular Dr. is quite open minded about treatments but the cardiac folks all
> seem to be playing a one string banjo... It largely involves a bad case of
> denial of any side effects of those two drugs.If I croak more quickly from
> not taking them it will still be better than the life I was living with the
> side effects...
> I could have asked son Scott to haul a tractor to a show and he has in the
> past but he does a huge amount to keep us going as it is. He and I did
> visit 3 nearby shows this summer together.
> I saw a quote on-line this morning: "Sometimes it takes me all day to
> accomplish nothing."  :-)
> 
> 
> .
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 1:07 PM, <tmehrkam at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> 
>> You need to borrow better equipment. :-}
>> 
>>    On Monday, September 19, 2016 8:44 AM, Cecil Bearden <
>> crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Sounds like the typical quality problems we endure these days. Cover the
>> bottom of those ramps with a 1/8 sheet of steel or aluminum and they
>> will hold together.  All the good lumber in the US is shipped
>> overseas.  We get the crap.  Those senders were probably made in China
>> or India.  Parts houses don't carry the fittings they used to.  Hardware
>> stores are the best bet on that now...
>> 
>> Cecil in Okla
>> 
>> 
>>> On 9/19/2016 12:42 AM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
>>> All
>>> 
>>> The last few days I have been hit with stupid little stuff.
>>> 
>>> Borrowing my son's V10 Ram to haul some mowers to Okla. leaving 2 there
>> with someone and hauling my Hustler back after doing some mowing there.
>>> V10 failed an oil pressure sender Wednesday near Ennis Tx. Changed it
>> out in parts store parking lot, which was not fun on hot engine. This
>> morning on the way to church the replacement sender also failed, putting a
>> small stream of oil out the electrical connection, just like the first one
>> did. Got replacement under warranty, but went to 6 places looking for 1/8
>> NPT 45 elbow and could not find. Want to move sensor so I can get a wrench
>> or sender socket on it. Finally found short nipple and coupling that should
>> move it away from block slightly. Tomorrow morning will try to install the
>> second sensor when engine is cool before I start it.
>>> Yesterday I snapped one of the blade spindle housings in two pieces on
>> my Hustler Fastrack SD mower. Was able to fine some replacement parts just
>> before store closed. Was able to finish mowing this afternoon.
>>> This weekend the 2 X 10 ramps I use to load mower failed near a knot
>> hole. Friday I got a new 2 X 10, and it snapped in two pieces on Saturday.
>> Yesterday got a second replacement on that also.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dennis
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
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> 
> -- 
> -- 
> 
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com
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