[AT] It's trying, but... no lift

Fri Sep 16 17:50:50 PDT 2016

Scott

The links dropping when you stop the engine is an MF thing.  That said, 30
seconds is very fast, indicating wear in either the cylinder or valve or
both.  If it is acceptable, don't worry about it.

In the 100 series, if either lever is not at the top of the quadrant, the
other is disabled.

If ever you need to take off the lift cover, remember to remove the small
roller in the control valve fork before you lift the cover.  Failure to do
this can result in damage or breakage of parts internal. You get to the
roller via the  cover plate holding the dipstick.

When you replace the roller, be sure to tie some thread around it first,
the thread anchored outside the transmission housing, coz re-installing
that roller can be tricky - and if you drop it, the lift cover has to come
off again!  Been there, done that, as they say :-(.

The MF135 is an excellent tractor; I've had one since 1965 and it still
goes well.  If you need spares, there are numerous English companies which
supply parts via the internet at fair prices (unlike in Aus., where non
genuine is usually the first thought!)

JV
> Thanks for all the informative replies, everyone, and especially thanks to
> Cecil for getting me to look at the controls more closely.
>
> So there's the inner quadrant (position control), and the outer quadrant
> (draft control.)  The inner is the one I use to lift the mower.  The outer
> one, I assume is for plowing?  Something to do with draft pressure?  The
> words on both are in French, I think, for no reason I can determine.  The
> position control says
>
> BASSE <- POSITION -> HAUTE    TRANS PORT    POMPAGE CONTINU
>
> The draft control says
>
> BAS <- EFFOR -> HAUT
>
> Anyway, with the outer quadrant all the way up, it wasn't working.
> Putting
> it down didn't help.  BUT... something I overlooked until I got this
> advice
> from Cecil - there's a "stop" near the top of the movement.  I moved the
> lever in and past the "stop", to the very top spot - SUCCESS!!  Now works
> like it should.  I guess a branch knocked it off the top stop while I was
> working, and I wasn't familiar enough with it to recognize what had
> happened.  So, working as well as ever.
>
> When I shut the tractor off with the mower up, it settles back to the
> ground
> in less than 30 seconds.  I know this is a problem, but since it otherwise
> works, I'm not going to get into fixing it, unless it's very
> easy/uninvolved.  Taking off the lift cover isn't something I'm ready to
> tackle.
>
> Let the mowing continue!
>
> Scott in Penfield NY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 9:30 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift
>
> Those systems were a piston pump with an unloader valve and a relief
> valve.
> I have seen a few relief valves go bad in my years of working with
> Ferguson
> systems, but it is rare.  It is possible that sitting out in the open over
> the winter in NY created enough condensation that the spring in the relief
> valve rusted and broke.  The control/relief valves were pretty reliable,
> but
> they had their issues.  My first guess is that the rings in the top deck
> hydraulic piston have broken and the oil is
> leaking by in the lift piston.   There is also the possibility tht this
> machine has set for so long and then moved around and loosened up the crud
> in the bottom of the sump and the screen has picked it up.
>
> Please note the what I am going to tell  you is from the regular 135
> tractors and the 35 tractors.  The vineyard may be different,
> conceptually they are the same..   A good FACTORY service manual is
> invaluable here.   I got burned by I&T manuals, so I really do not
> recommend them anymore.  The Wisconsin historical society may have a
> reprint
> of the manual available for you.  They have a lot and their charge for
> reprints is really cheap.
>
> On the lift control quadrant ( right side hyd lift lever )  There should
> be
> 2 levers.  The long one for lift and the short one for draft.
> Sometimes the draft control will over ride the lift.  The draft control
> lever(short one with the square metal knob) should be between the 2 arrows
> that say draft on the quadrant.  It should be stamped into the metal.
>    That knob should be in the center between the arrows.  Then try to
> raise
> the lift with the other lever.  if not, leave the lift lever a little
> below
> the top and then move the draft lever to see if anything happens.  This
> might fix your problem.  If not see below.  If you are going to change the
> fluid, you need to clean the screen.
>
> On the left side of the transmission, under the seat is a round plate with
> the PTO lever.  Remove the plate with the lever. Disconnect the PTO shaft
> and start the tractor with the mower attached.  Raise the lift and watch
> for
> fluid draining from the top deck lift piston and dripping down
> into the sump.  A drip is OK, we just do not want a gusher..   If it
> just drips, your problem is in the bottom.
>
> inside the transmission about 4 to 6 inches in the bottom is a filter
> screen
> that looks about the size of a pop can It has a top and bottom cup, and is
> separated about an inch in the middle.  The top half has a metal handle
> piece that you use to unscrew counterclockwise the top is attached to a
> bolt
> that screws into the intake of the pump.  You take the screen with both
> cups
> out and wash it out.  This is easiest when the oil is drained.  There are
> 2
> drain plugs,  one under the front of the transmission behind the clutch
> housing, and the other under the plate you took off. If the screen is full
> of junk, you have found the problem.
>
> When you replace the round plate with the PTO lever,  make sure the inside
> lever goes in the slot of the PTO shifter.
>
> If you have any problems, take some pictures and post on here. We will try
> to fix it remotely!!
>
> Cecil in oKla
>
>
> On 9/15/2016 7:38 AM, Bo Hinch wrote:
>> Sounds to me like you have a piece of trash in the pressure unloader
>> valve .
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 6:28 AM, Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>>> Just a few quick thoughts Scott.
>>>
>>> 1)  you used the word "suddenly".  Was it literally fine one minute
>>> and problematic the next?  Or, did it actually go away sort of
>>> gradually?
>>>
>>> 2)  Have you tried it again since?
>>>
>>>
>>> Steve O.
>>> PS:  when I'm faced with draining ~8 gallons (I've got about 7
>>> gallons in my modern-ish Ford 1520 hydrostat)  I drain part of it and
>>> stick the drain plug back in, then deal with the amount (2-3 gallons)
>>> I've drained, then repeat as required.  OK, yeah, putting the drain
>>> plug back into a stream of draining oil is a bit messy admittedly.
>>> _______________________________________________
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