[AT] Cub problem

[k7jdj at aol.com]

I like to use the in line spark testers available at Harbor Freight and auto parts stores.  You can install and continue to run the engine and monitor spark.  Would be hard to see some issues but has worked for me.

Gary

Renton, WA


-----Original Message-----
From: Bo Hinch <bohinch at gmail.com>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Fri, May 13, 2016 6:22 am
Subject: Re: [AT] Cub problem

Several years ago a distance friend was having trouble with a ford 2000
that was a real problem as it started in early winter and while putting out
hay would always act up about the time he had to drive thur a bad spot and
some times would bog down as the tractor would run so bad . He had the
carburetor rebuilt and it seamed to help ( for a little while) , and then
got worse again . He bought a NEW carburetor , installed it and still had
the same problem . I went and checked it early one cold ( 38*) morning and
first thing I checked was the POINTS . The platinum had become unsoldered
and was just floating around and not making good contact . Replace both
points and condenser which solved his problems . A lot of money was spent
for nothing because of misdiagnosis . Live and Learn .

On Fri, May 13, 2016 at 6:38 AM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:

> If you ran the cheap unleaded gas in it, then I would bet there are some
> white flakes of dried surfactant in the carburetor.  If the gas had any
> ethanol ( as all of it has some, even the no ethanol ) then there is a
> flake of rust in it.    I run only the highest grade of ethanol free
> gasoline in all of my older engines that were built prior to unleaded
> gas.   I think I have told the story before of having to use the high
> grade of gas on my fire pumps to get them to meet the test
> requirements.  I have lost a lot of small engine carburetors to ethanol
> in the gas even  the no ethanol grade.  A little Marvel Mystery Oil
> seems to help keep the ethanol from attaching the carburetor when it
> dries out.    Unleaded low octane gas has a surfactant in it to make it
> burn at a lower temperature for less emissions.  It seems counter
> productive, but that's the EPA... The engine needs heat to operate
> efficiently and the gas has water added to lower the heat content.   I
> was told by a petroleum engineer that the white powder/flakes in the
> carburetor left  when the gas evaporates is the surfactant  to make the
> water mix... Ethanol just causes more water to be pulled from the air...
>
> I once had an Onan Generator with a 30 gal tank.  I had to run Methanol
> in the gas to keep the carb from icing when running in the middle of the
> night.  This was during the 2001 Ice Storm.   We ran for 27 days on
> Generator.   I bought a diesel generator and sold the Onan.  The buyer
> brought the generator back as it only ran one tank of gas through it
> and then would not start.   Rust from had built up in the bottom of the
> tank and blocked the fuel inlet.   The rust was very finely powdered.
> The gas tank was completely dry from the methanol.  I connected a 1/2
> inch pipe to my shop vacuum and sucked every bit of rust out of the
> tank.  I then put a 1 inch long tubing in the fuel bowl inlet to stick
> up in the tank and prevent water and sediment  from plugging up the fuel
> line...
>
> Just my $0.02
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
>
> On 5/12/2016 10:14 PM, Mike M wrote:
> >
> > On 5/12/2016 2:15 PM, Greg Hass wrote:
> >> Am having trouble with my 1949 Farmall Cub. It sat from fall until about
> >> April when I started it.
> >>
> > IT SAT.  If it had fuel in the carb, my money would bet on a fuel system
> > issue. These carbs are so easy to pull apart, why not pull it and give
> > it a good cleaning and blow out? Stop trying to find the the zebra in
> > the room when the 900 lb gorilla is staring you in the face. Make sure
> > all the orifices and jets are squeaky clean. Then check for crap
> > floating around your fuel tank that could clog the screen if so equipped.
> >
> > Mike M
> >>
> >
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