[AT] key-ways

[Cecil R Bearden]

I have both types of cutters to install keyways in shafts.  The easiest 
is a straight key and using an end mill to cut the keyway.  Whenever I 
cut a keyway, I do not cut all the way to the end of the shaft.  I leave 
at least an uncut length from the end of the key to the end of the shaft 
at least 1/2 the diameter of the shaft.  This way it does not fall out 
when pulling the hub etc off, and it stays in when installing the hub.  
I grind a radius on the end of the key to fit the radius of the cutter. 
Woodruff keys are a pain to cut for me even though I have he equipment.  
I call this the captive key method..

Cecil in OKla



On 11/9/2015 4:45 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
> Greg,
>
> The type of key is determined by 3 main items
> 1 - machinery to cut the key in the shaft - straight keys are cut by "router bit" type of tool traveling parallel to shaft centerline after an initial plunge to depth, and half moon keys are cut with "mini saw blade" plunging onto the depth of the shaft.
> 2 - strength requirements of the joint - joint strength gets complicated and is effected by key depth, key length, how sharp the edges of the keyway are, plus shear strength of the key. There might be a few more less significant factors, but these are the main ones.
> 3 - designers and installers preferences
>
> I personally like the half moon (Woodruff) type of keys because they stay put during installation better.
>
> Thanks
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 9, 2015, at 1:15 PM, Greg Hass <ghass at m3isp.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm working on an "invention" for my roll-over plow. More when I have
>> time. It will have 2 shafts with a sprocket in the middle and rubber
>> blades on each end (similar to the straw spreader on combines) . I will
>> need 3 keys on each shaft; each shaft is about 20 inches long. My
>> question is; should I use straight keys or half moon keys. They will be
>> powered by a hydraulic motor that ran the reel on a IH 715 combine.
>>        Greg Hass
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