[AT] drill bits
Recentjester at aol.com
Recentjester at aol.com
Sat May 2 05:49:30 PDT 2015
just curious but are the old cleveland and national brand drills as good
as new drills?
In a message dated 5/2/2015 7:18:29 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
jtchall at nc.rr.com writes:
Gary, here are some links for MSC and Travers as well:
http://www.travers.com/
http://www.mscdirect.com/
See if you can access any sale flyers online, you may find a good deal
there.
These are the more more generic drills. MSC has a listing for over 30,000
drills, it gets annoying trying to sort through all that sometimes.
http://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?pagelabel=10&search=71205751&contentPath=
/sales-catalogs/big-book
If you are ordering from MSC I would probably go with the Hertel brand.
That’s
an old J&L line. No telling where they are made but the quality should be
reasonable based on my past experience with some of their endmills. If
money is no object, move on up to Precision (PTD). Likewise consider
drills
made with cobalt, I forgot to mention yesterday that is all I buy at work.
One other reccomendation regarding drills. Should you ever find yourself
buying any of the silver and demming style drills between 33/64 and 1
inch,
try to get them with 3 flats on the shank. Those things are notorious for
spinning in a drill chuck. Even the high dollar chucks we use don't hold
them. In the CNC equipment we hold them in a solid holder with a setscrew
or
a collet chuck. Some of the manual machinists hold them in drill chucks,
much to my dislike. At least with the flats it won't spin. For the record,
most of us don't have a drill press at home adequate to run those. I
generally use my milling machine for running the larger bits.
Charlie and Dave, take a look at this link. FWIW we use both terms at
work;
Keeping it tractor related would be like saying do you have a disc, a
harrow, or a disc harrow for your tractor---all depends on where you are
from.
http://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?pagelabel=10&search=71205751&contentPath=
/sales-catalogs/big-book
John Hall
-----Original Message-----
From: k7jdj at aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2015 11:21 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] drill bits
Thanks for all the comments. I did a Google on drill and drill bit, and I
think drill bit wins. John I get ENCO catalogs and emails as I have
ordered
from them in the past, although its been a long time. I will save your
mail
for reference.
Gary
Renton, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: David Rotigel <rotigel at me.com>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Fri, May 1, 2015 8:08 pm
Subject: Re: [AT] drill bits
I think everyone understands 1.) what a drill bit is, 2.) what an electric
drill
is, and 3.) what a drill is. Just as we all understand that different
people
have different names for things. (My goodness, have you ever talked to
someone
who lives near New Orleans?)
Dave
PS, "drill" can also be used as a verb, and
may, or may not, be the term used for something that cuts (only) metal!
PPS, If
I use a "brace" to turn a drill am I a motor?
On May 1, 2015, at 10:20 PM,
charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com> wrote:
> Good advice John. I
haven't had to buy many drills lately.
> (I'll start this old fight again. The
thing that cuts the metal
> is a drill. The thing that turns it is a drill
motor and there is
> no such thing as a drill bit)
>
> Last time I did have
to buy any that were good quality I found
> that it's hard to buy a set of
various size bits (a drill index) in
> decent quality at a decent price. The
only way to get good drills
> at a good price is to buy quantities of each size
you need.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
jtchall at nc.rr.com
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2015 5:19 PM
> To: Antique tractor
email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] drill bits
>
> I've been buying
all the cutting tools for the machine where I work for the
> last 20 years.
First off, never seen a drill that wasn't HSS or carbide.
> Coatings are just
that. They are intended to help disperse heat but to
> primarily keep from the
cutting edge wearing down and to prevent chip
> galling in the flutes when
drilling aluminum. You most likely aren't going
> to find any decent drills
locally--if you do the price will be pretty high
> most likely. Never seen a
decent cutting tool from China or India. There is
> a good line of endmills
from Korea. The drills I use come from USA, Japan,
> Canada, Germany and
Mexico. We are a job shop so we need good quality
> tooling but don't do large
production runs to justify using the extreme
> stuff. I keep the shop stocked
with Nachi drills up to 1/2", Viking up to
> 1", whatever is cheapest beyond
that. Take a look at MSC, Travers or Enco
> and you should be able to find some
made in USA drills at a reasonable
> price. You'll want jobbers length, most
likely 118 deg point, 135 split
> points are nice as well but generally found
on screw machine length drills.
> Get either a bright or black oxide finish.
The other coatings are eye candy
> on cheap tools to drive the cost up by
making you think they will last
> longer. Coatings on production grade tooling
are a different story all
> together. We use black oxide coating on our drills
and we cut anything from
> plastic to 4140 pre-hard. We actually cut way more
tool steel than all other
> materials combined. PTD, CLeveland, Chicago
Latrobe, Dormer, Ghuring,
> Titex--all are great tools, but are going to get
expensive quick.
>
> Keep this in mind next time you are drilling. I run a
general purpose 1/4"
> drill at around 1400 RPM in a rigid setup under flood
coolant when drilling
> cold rolled steel. With no coolant (cutting oil keeps
it lubed but not
> really cool), and using a hand drill or drill press (neither
of which is
> very rigid or runs the tool true), 1400 RPM is too fast. We can
and do push
> beyond those limits if the quantity of drilling warrants speeding
things up.
>
> John Hall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
k7jdj at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 2:58 PM
> To:
at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: [AT] drill bits
>
> I wonder what
type of drill bits work for antique tractor bolt removal and
> repairs? I have
been buying cheap throw away Harbor Freight titanium
> nitride coated bits but
have gone back to using high speed steel bits. Even
> the higher quality
coated bits don't seem to work as good as the high speed
> steel bits.
>
>
The coated bits don't drill as well and are much easier to catch and break.
>
It is getting harder to find high speed steel bits. I have a drill doctor
> but
it doesn't do a good job on the really small sizes.
>
> Would be interested
in what others are using or doing that I might be
> missing.
>
> Gary
>
>
Renton, WA
>
> JD B
> 2 Cletrac model F's
> 1 Cletrac model W
>
> and
lots of other old iron
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