[AT] Drawn out 1949 AC-B engine rebuild

[Mogrits]

Thanks for the reply. I am not plumb dumb, just plain dumb! I know to do
those things and have plasti-guage I bought 10 yrs ago to check the rod
bearings.

I was just trying to stimulate some tractor discussion.

I'll do my homework. Since I took the engine apart: The local
automotive-only machine shop closed down, my cousin moved to Florida, my
mechanic friend's business partner got cancer so my friend is working
double-time, and three kids went to college. The advice and guidance I
thought I had when I tore into it is no longer there. I don't want my wife
dealing with a torn down tractor in another ten years that "ran when
parked".

Warren

On Sat, Mar 7, 2015 at 5:14 PM, <Recentjester at aol.com> wrote:

> Warren: this is kinda like telling u how to fly a plane when  the pilot
> just died an u are the only one left to land it. Plastigauge is what u
> need to
> check the clearances on your mains and con rods. if it does not pass  take
> it to a place that will turn down the wore out journals (if they have any
> meat left) If it needs that then complete tear down is necessary including
> changing the cam bearings, new freeze plugs, block hot tanked and all head
> work done, oil passages rodded with wire brushes.
>
>
> In a message dated 3/7/2015 4:04:07 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> mogrits at gmail.com writes:
>
> Okay,  assuming your comment about making shims is not referring to
> emptying
> beer  cans, do I have to replace the main berings or is that just
> considered
> good  practice "since you're in there"? These are the kind of questions I
> have.  Do I drop the crankshaft and take it to a (who do I take it to?) to
> have it  checked and ground and trued if necessary? Or can I just unbolt
> the
> rod  bearings and remove the pistons and sleeves, install new and if so, do
> I  install new rod bearings and how do I know what size to use? I am
> assuming  re-using rod bearings is verbotten.
>
> Warren
>
> On Sat, Mar 7, 2015  at 4:37 PM, <Recentjester at aol.com> wrote:
>
> > I have one engine  three back halves need to get busy too on  rebuilding
> > mine. My  current excuse is making the rod and main bearing  shims
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 3/7/2015 3:34:10 P.M. Central  Standard Time,
> > mogrits at gmail.com writes:
> >
> > About  10  yrs ago my B became very hard to start and just as hard to
> keep
> > running. A  compression test revealed...that it had almost  none!
> >
> > So one weekend  while a cousin was visiting we tore  down the tractor and
> > engine and found  we could rock the pistons  in the cylinders by hand.
> > Obviously the pistons,  rings or  sleeves or all the above were very
> worn. I
> > bagged all the bolts   and photo-documented it all and still have all the
> > parts neatly  arranged  but have not touched it in that time. I need to
> get
> > off  my butt and get  that tractor back in the field.
> >
> > What are  the lists recommendations as  to how to proceed? I purchased
> >  Spencers book on engine rebuilding and read  it years ago, but it is
> still
> > outside my wheelhouse as to what is necessary  and what  isn't. What do I
> > check in the crank and what will need to be  done  there based on those
> > findings? Head/valve work while it's  apart?
> >
> > I'm  asking for the kick in the pants that I've  missed since George
> Willer
> > passed.
> >
> > (BTW, this  tractor has no ignition issues as the  magneto was very
> >  professionally rebuilt by the now passed list  member/magneto  whisperer
> > whose name I can't recall) He was an extremely  kind  and funny man. When
> he
> > returned the rebuilt magneto he warned me  not  to park the tractor
> outside
> > as an errant breeze might move  the tractor  enough to generate a  spark!
> >
> >  Warren
> > _______________________________________________
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