[AT] Plows, was Re: Supervision

[charlie hill]

Can anyone explain the differences in the plows and what makes one
pull better than the other?  Unless their was a patent on the geometry
of the frame or the curve of the plow share it seems to me like everyone
in the business would have built one according to the best model.
I know that Allis plows work particularly good behind Allis tractors but 
that
is because their mounted plows were designed to work with the "traction
booster" system and that had more to do with how the traction booster works
and the geometry of the frame than it did with how the plow turned the soil.
I'd sure like to know more about the designs.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cecil R Bearden
Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2015 8:03 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Plows, was Re: Supervision

The old tractor mechanic, who taught me the trade over 50 years ago, had
worked in a Moline dealership for many years in OKC.   He would tell
about the only plows that could pull the red clay in OK, were Moline &
Oliver.  He also would talk about which brand bought Moline & Oliver
plows and painted them their colors.  Here in OK, if we plow 8 to 10
inches deep, it is deep.  We usually only plow to roll up the terraces
when they get worn down.   I am in the part of the country where the
Graham Hoeme plow was invented.

Cecil in OKla




On 6/26/2015 11:01 PM, Greg Hass wrote:
> In our area of Michigan, a lot of people don't moldboard  plow any more
> but those that do, and going back 50 years, usually plow at 10 to 12
> inches. I still plow, IH 3 bottom roll-over plow, and I stay in that
> range. I  think I would have trouble trying to plow at your depth. In
> our area, the most popular plow ever was the IH 720.  In fact, 95% of
> green tractors pulled red plows. A local used machinery dealer used to
> say there are two plows in this country; the IH 720 and then all the rest.
>       Greg Hass
>
>
>
>
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