[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.
Cecil R Bearden
crbearden at copper.net
Sat Jan 31 19:09:39 PST 2015
Del:
How hard is that intake manifold to remove?
Cecil in OKla
On 1/31/2015 8:50 PM, Wrench50 at aol.com wrote:
> Cecil I have found that removing and installing that engine without the
> intake manifold installed makes the job much easyer.The way the engine sits
> so far to the rear under the cowl makes it very difficult to work on.Having
> done this I would never remove the cab to pull the engine. Just my opinion.
> Del from MI
>
>
> In a message dated 1/31/2015 7:54:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> crbearden at copper.net writes:
>
> I think the biggest problem with this engine is the crappy oil that was
> used in it. The oil is brown and stninks like Quaker State.. Old
> Quaker state. It was a drug recovery. I bought it because it was white
> and non-descrip, and had more options than I would ever buy on a new one
> for myself. My biggest problem with tearing it down is that I need to
> spend about 2 weeks with some decent help to just get one bay of my shop
> cleaned out to get a truck in there. The shop has been the repository
> of every supply, etc since my Dad had his surgery that eventually killed
> him . I have a 30. 000 lb 30 ft long four post truck lift to put in
> there when it gets cleaned out. I hate to turn engineering work down,
> so I have 5 consulting projects that are in various stages of work. I
> also have to finish 3 years of expenses for my tax man. Not to mention
> finishing some repair on my house and getting my Dad's Double wide
> cleaned out and on the market. All the time keeping 200 acres of hay
> and the required machinery running, and taking care of 25 head of cows.
> I would just like to get something to drive for a while until I can
> get a few things caught up. I know that this economy will bust soon and
> I will have plenty of time. There are no reliable trustworthy
> mechanical oriented laborers available at a price I can afford. Shop
> time is over $100 per hour here.. I work outside a lot and really
> prefer it, however, OKlahoma has had more wind the last 5 years than it
> has had for the last 50. Right now we are getting the first good rain
> we have had in 3 months. I spread fertilizer on all the pastures and
> the wheat ground yesterday and finished at 5 pm. I will not complain
> about the rain. When I get to work on this truck, it probably will get
> another engine installed. However, the best way to do that is to remove
> the cab. (Ford's better idea) That will probably involve using the
> digger derrick truck or the trackhoe, or both in addition to the front
> end loader. Then again I may just find someone interested in the dam
> thing and let someone else have it for what I got in it and never again
> will I buy a drug seizure... I really thought it was a ex government
> truck. I have at least 7 of those in my "fleet" and they have served
> me very well. In 7 years this is only the 2nd time I have had a bad
> problem with a truck or tractor bought without seeing it up close.
> Every time I have went to look at one and bought it it turned to crap
> within 2 months...
>
> That is the reason I am so far behind.
>
> Cecil in oKla
>
>
>
> On 1/31/2015 1:59 PM, Indiana Robinson wrote:
>> On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 12:00 PM, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Would it be possible to chuck the valve in a drill and spin it while
>>> trying to get marvel oil, Kroil, Gibbs, etc to lubricate it. I really
>>> don't have the time and place right now to pull the head...
>>>
>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>
>>>
>> There are any number of possible ways to approach this cheaply and
> quickly.
>> If it is just sticking from crud (technical description) it is sticking
> at
>> the stem near the head. Very unlikely it is sticking at the spring/stem
>> end. I would try pulling the plug and spraying (take your pick) at the
> base
>> of the valve guide of both valves when they are open from jogging the
>> engine over. Put the plug back in but don't connect the wire yet. Start
> it
>> and run it a few seconds then shut it off and do the spray bit again.
> Then
>> after the second running, connect the plug wire and try it.
>> If that doesn't work my next move would be to pull the rocker cover and
>> being sure that the piston was down press the valves down from the top
>> while spraying whatever up under the seals. You should be able to tell
> from
>> the top which valve is sticking and if one has a weak spring (or even a
>> broken one). If a spring is just weak try switching it out with one from
> a
>> valve that is not sticking (being sure that neither valve drops).
>> :-)
>> It might buy you some time...
>> For what it is worth (flame shield up) I learned a very long time ago to
>> not put a lot of credence in what a lot of "mechanics" "think" might be
>> wrong.
>>
>> My Farmall Super MTA was bought at a bargain price many years ago,
> knowing
>> that it had a "soft" knock that the dealers top mechanic was just
>> "positive" was a damaged timing gear. I bought it planning an engine
>> rebuild anyway so I wasn't too concerned. Funny thing... apparently a
>> damaged timing gear and a piston broken in half make the same sound :-)
>> It made a great tractor, still is. Has the same high quality surface of
>> rust and thin paint it had when I found it.
>> :-)
>>
>>
>
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