[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

[Wrench50 at aol.com]

Cecil  I have found that removing and installing that engine without  the 
intake manifold installed makes the job much easyer.The way the engine sits  
so far to the rear under the cowl makes it very difficult to work on.Having 
done  this I would never remove the cab to pull the engine. Just my opinion. 
 Del  from MI
 
 
In a message dated 1/31/2015 7:54:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
crbearden at copper.net writes:

I think  the biggest problem with this engine is the crappy oil that was 
used in  it.  The oil is brown and stninks like Quaker State..  Old  
Quaker state.  It was a drug recovery.  I bought it because it  was white 
and non-descrip, and had more options than I would ever buy on a  new one 
for myself. My biggest problem with tearing it down is that I need  to 
spend about 2 weeks with some decent help to just get one bay of my  shop 
cleaned out to get a truck in there.  The shop has been the  repository 
of every supply, etc since my Dad had his surgery that  eventually killed 
him .  I have a 30. 000 lb 30 ft long  four  post truck lift to put in 
there when it gets cleaned out.  I hate to  turn engineering work down, 
so I have 5 consulting projects that are in  various stages of work.  I 
also have to finish 3 years of expenses  for my tax man.  Not to mention 
finishing some repair on my house and  getting my Dad's Double wide 
cleaned out and on the market.  All the  time keeping 200 acres of hay 
and the required machinery running, and  taking care of 25 head of cows. 
I would just like to get  something to drive for a while until I can 
get a few things caught  up.  I know that this economy will bust soon and 
I will have plenty  of time.  There are no reliable trustworthy 
mechanical oriented  laborers available at a price I can afford. Shop 
time is over $100 per  hour here..   I work outside a lot and really 
prefer it,  however, OKlahoma has had more wind the last 5 years than it 
has had for  the last 50.  Right now we are getting the first good rain 
we have  had in 3 months.  I spread fertilizer on all the pastures and 
the  wheat ground yesterday and finished at 5 pm.  I will not complain  
about the rain.  When I get to work on this truck, it probably will  get 
another engine installed. However, the best way to do that is to  remove 
the cab.  (Ford's better idea) That will probably involve  using the 
digger derrick truck or the trackhoe, or both in addition to the  front 
end loader.  Then again I may just find someone interested in  the dam 
thing and let someone else have it for what I got in it and never  again 
will I buy a drug seizure...   I really thought it was a  ex government 
truck.   I have at least 7 of those in my "fleet"  and they have served 
me very well.  In 7 years this is only the 2nd  time  I have had a bad 
problem with a truck or tractor bought without  seeing it up close.   
Every time I have went to look at one and  bought it it turned to crap 
within 2 months...

That is the reason I  am so far behind.

Cecil in oKla



On 1/31/2015 1:59 PM,  Indiana Robinson wrote:
> On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 12:00 PM, Cecil R  Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Would  it be possible to chuck the valve in a drill and spin it while
>>  trying to get marvel oil, Kroil, Gibbs, etc to lubricate it.  I  really
>> don't have the time and place right now to pull the  head...
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>  There are any number of possible ways to approach this cheaply and  
quickly.
> If it is just sticking from crud (technical description) it  is sticking 
at
> the stem near the head. Very unlikely it is sticking at  the spring/stem
> end. I would try pulling the plug and spraying (take  your pick) at the 
base
> of the valve guide of both valves when they are  open from jogging the
> engine over. Put the plug back in but don't  connect the wire yet. Start 
it
> and run it a few seconds then shut it  off and do the spray bit again. 
Then
> after the second running, connect  the plug wire and try it.
> If that doesn't work my next move would be  to pull the rocker cover and
> being sure that the piston was down press  the valves down from the top
> while spraying whatever up under the  seals. You should be able to tell 
from
> the top which valve is sticking  and if one has a weak spring (or even a
> broken one). If a spring is  just weak try switching it out with one from 
a
> valve that is not  sticking (being sure that neither valve drops).
> :-)
> It might  buy you some time...
> For what it is worth (flame shield up) I learned  a very long time ago to
> not put a lot of credence in what a lot of  "mechanics" "think" might be
> wrong.
>
> My Farmall Super  MTA was bought at a bargain price many years ago, 
knowing
> that it had  a "soft" knock that the dealers top mechanic was just
> "positive" was a  damaged timing gear. I bought it planning an engine
> rebuild anyway so  I wasn't too concerned. Funny thing... apparently a
> damaged timing  gear and a piston broken in half make the same sound  :-)
> It made  a great tractor, still is. Has the same high quality surface of
> rust  and thin paint it had when I found it.
>  :-)
>
>


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