[AT] Welding Advice

[Mike]

I think I'm going to just have to spend some time practicing with it, I 
am jealous of people who can fabricate things and lay down a perfect 
bead. A few months back my wife's horse spooked and ripped an aluminum 
U-Bolt off the trailer, it had been surface welded at the factory, and 
it came off cleanly the welds stuck to the U-bolt and not the trailer. I 
happened to see a sign posted on different street corners for a guy that 
did mobile welding of all types. He came out and TIG welded it back on; 
his welding job was a thing of beauty, far surpassing the factories job.

Mike M

On 2/10/2015 6:58 PM, charlie hill wrote:
> Mike remember that what you are trying to do is essentially melt the two
> pieces of steel together
> the wire or the rod is filler but the metal being welded has to momentarily
> melt for it all to flow
> together.    You have to stay down in the puddle with the wire or rod.  If
> the red spot is large
> you are probably pulling out of the puddle too far.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve W.
> Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 4:07 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Welding Advice
>
> Mike wrote:
>> Steve, the problem I'm having with the Hobart 110 welder, is lack of
>> penetration.  Generally, all I do is puddle weld on the surface without
>> biting into the item being welded to.
>>
>> Mike M
> Well as we get older...  OH you meant the welder :-)
>
>
> What are you welding and what do you have the machine set at?
> That machine should be able to handle 3/16" clean steel without an issue.
>
> Polarity correct? If it was set up as a gas unit and you are using it
> with flux core the polarity has to be changed. If it's backwards it will
> lay a pretty bead on top but with no penetration.
>
> Normally flux core runs hotter than the same wire as a solid.
>